Travel Bites - Leyte: Witness to war and peace

LEYTE is rich in history and culture with a number of attractions both natural and man-made. 

It figured in the Pacific campaign during World War II as US Army Gen. Douglas MacArthur staged his historic return to the Philippines, anchored on his “I shall return” promise, at Red Beach in Palo, Leyte.

It is also the home province of the Romualdez family whose most famous member, Imelda Romualdez Marcos, became the first lady of the Philippines from 1965 until the Marcos family’s ouster in 1986.

Leyte boasts of a number of heritage destinations ranging from Spanish-era churches to ancestral homes.

Its attractions include also include white-sand beaches and an engineering marvel bridging the province and neighboring Samar.

MUST-SEE’s

The Leyte Landing Memorial at Red Beach (Barangay Candahug, Palo) is supposed to be the exact spot where Gen. Douglas MacArthur waded ashore with a landing party that included President Sergio Osmeña Jr. and Philippine diplomat Carlos P. Romulo, on October 20, 1944. (Photo by Wikimedia Commons)

Though it lacks the splendor of its years under the Marcos administration, the Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum (Real Street, in the capital city of Tacloban) continues to be popular among tourists (yes, despite the rather prohibitive P300 entrance fee!). Initially constructed as a resthouse for the Marcos family, it serves as a reminder of the wealth and luxury that had been enjoyed by the family, amid the immense poverty of the majority of the population.
The shrine-museum is a repository of the antique Chinese jars, paintings by celebrated local artists,  Italian art pieces, English and French period furniture, among others. It features a chapel on the ground floor with the Infant Child Jesus rendered in ivory as focal point, and 13 guest rooms representing the various regions of the country. On the second floor are the bedrooms and living area of the Marcos family. Used in the construction of this once-glorious palatial home were mostly local indigenous materials.
History buffs may also want to visit the iconic Leyte Landing Memorial at Red Beach (Barangay Candahug, Palo), supposed to be the exact spot where MacArthur waded ashore with a landing party that included President Sergio Osmeña Jr. and Philippine diplomat Carlos P. Romulo, on October 20, 1944. As commander of the Allied Forces in the Pacific during World War II, the American general fulfilled his promise to return to the Philippines, as the Allied Forces effectively defeated the Japanese occupiers.
Another historic site is Limasawa Island in southern Leyte, where Portugese explorer Ferdinand Magellan was said to have landed in 1521, and where the first Catholic Mass in Asia was first celebrated (Barangay Magallanes) one Easter.  Remnants of the first cross planted in the country are on a hill that can be reached by scaling 450 steps.
With its coral reefs still intact, the island’s waters teem with fishes, and from February to May, whale sharks are a common sight in the area.  (Take a public bus or passenger van from Tacloban or Ormoc to Padre Burgos Fort where a ferry takes you to Limasawa.)
Beachgoers should check out Kalanggaman Island in Palompon, with its two outstretched white sandbars where you can take a leisurely walk, or just lie down and sunbathe. There are no resorts on the island, so it’s advisable to take camping equipment if you want to stay a night or two. Swimming, kayaking and snorkeling are the popular activities in Kalanggaman. The island is protected and co-managed by the municipal office and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources so a P200-environmental fee is collected from guests. (Call the Palompon Tourism Office at 053-555-9010 or 0917-3037267/0916-9464612 for inquiries.)

The San Juanico Bridge is said to be the longest bridge in the Philippines over sea water. (Photo from http://commons.wikimedia.org)

The San Juanico Bridge, which connects Leyte with the province of Samar, is the longest bridge in the country over sea water, in this case, the San Juanico Strait. The main portion of the bridge is an arc-shaped truss. Traveling over the bridge offers magnificent views of the sparkling strait with a few islets in the distance.

Must-do’s

Heritage tour. With Spanish colonization and Christianization of the Philippines having started in Leyte, it’s no wonder it has a number of Spanish-era churches and schools, or at least what remains of these structures.
In the town of Baybay, American-style colonial homes still stand along Mabini Street (also called Heritage Street) and are still used as residences. Nearby is the Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, done in the usual Spanish earthquake baroque style, completed in 1870.
Another heritage site is the Our Lady of Assumption Parish Church in Tanauan, constructed in 1595 and is one of the oldest churches in the country. Then there are the ruins of a Jesuit seminary and a brick church in Dulag, a town which claims to be the actual site where MacArthur landed on his return to the Philippines. In the town of Carigara are ruins of another Jesuit Church built in the 16th century, now standing amid a plaza built in 1995, as well as an ancestral home supported with posts outside, thus called Balay nga Gawas It Harigi.
In Hilongos are remnants of an old fort and Spanish-era church—in Leyte, most of the churches had fortresses built around them to protect them from marauding Moro pirates. The remaining portions of the old church now form part of the structure of the present-day Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church.
Jazz and foodie haven. Who would’ve thought that in this far-away province, jazz music would be much appreciated by local folk? At Julio’s Buffet and Jazz Joint (T# 053-325-8808) along P. Paterno Street in Tacloban, jazz musicians like Awit awardee Noli Aurillo play acoustic guitar there regularly.
Ocho Seafood and Grill (Senator Enage Street, T# 053-325-4171 or 523-3220) serves its food dampa-style. Freshly caught seafood are displayed and all diners have to do is point to what they want and have the seafood cooked in their preferred manner. Popular among diners as well are the oyster adobo and crispy salmon skin.
Local delicacies that should be tried or brought home as pasalubong are the binagol, made from a gabi-like root crop, coconut milk and sugar and steamed inside a coconut shell (bagol), and the moron, which is a suman (glutinous rice cake wrapped in palm leaves) made from cocoa or tablea, thus its chocolatey taste. You can buy these at any of the public markets.
The lechon (roasted pig) is also a popular dish in Leyte, which is dipped in garlic and vinegar, instead of liver sauce. Try it at Timo Romano Lechon in Barangay 60, Sagkahan, along Real Street in Tacloban (053-325-5929).

The Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum is a repository of antique Chinese jars, paintings by celebrated local artists, Italian art pieces, English and French period furniture, among others. (Photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Where to stay: The Oriental Hotel Leyte in Palo, just adjacent to Tacloban is one of the newer hotels in Leyte. It has an infinity pool with a view of the sea, and is just a skip away from the Leyte Landing Memorial. Rooms are spacious and clean, with courteous staff, although the dining options are limited.  (Click http://leyte.theorientalhotels.com for reservations.)
The Go Hotel in Tacloban is a good bet for budget travelers. It has a great location as it is adjacent to a mall. The rooms are really small, but have comfortable beds and a really strong shower. (For reservations, click http://www.gohotels.ph/tacloban).
Getting there: PAL Express and Cebu Pacific fly to Tacloban from Manila and Cebu, while Zest Airways and Seair fly from Manila. Check the carriers’ respective web sites for schedules.

(This piece was originally published in the March 18, 2013 issue of the BusinessMirror. Since then, a massive typhoon struck Leyte on Nov. 8, 2013 . The capital of Tacloban, specifically, is still in a state of rehabilitation, so many of the establishments mentioned above may still be closed or undergoing repair. Before visiting Leyte, please call the phone nos. provided above or better yet, check with the Department of Tourism, Region 8 at 053-325-5279 / 321-2048 or email: dotreg8@yahoo.com / tiopeskrs@yahoo.com / dottacloban@yahoo.com. Bangon Leyte!)

Where were you on 08/21/83?

IT'S hard to believe that it's been 25 years since Sen. Ninoy Aquino's death. In a way, it's like the JFK assassination in the States...everyone remembers where they were when it happened. For us Pinoys, however, since Ninoy's arrival at the NAIA was not covered by TV news organizations – given the then dispensation – most of us found out about his assassination rather belatedly.

And so, I don't remember where I was when Ninoy was shot. I don't even remember how I found out about it. Since this was in 1983, I had just started college at De La Salle, so I would assume, I was in class that day. And most probably, I only found out about the assassination when I got home.

But I must admit, Ninoy Aquino was not a big name in our household. My parents were huge supporters of the Sen. Gerry Roxas kasi, who was Ninoy's "rival" of sorts back then. So what is more vivid in my recollection is the bombing at Plaza Miranda of the Liberal Party campaign rally in 1971. I remember a flurry of activity at home and phone calls, watching TV for any word of Sen. Roxas who I am told, was my ninong at my confirmation. And my Pop heaving a sigh of relief after upon learning that "Ninong" Gerry was in the hospital but okay (I use the term "ninong" loosely because I never really got the chance to meet him), and telling us about it. I was relieved as well...though I can't explain how I could have some affection for someone I had never even met.


(Image of Ninoy Aquino from the rocketboychronicles)

Anyhoo, flash forward to 1983...although I don't remember where I was when Ninoy was shot, I remember attending forum after forum at De La Salle, watching that short video where the cameraman tries to follow the Senator as he disembarks from the plane, then someone blocking the camera, and a split second after...hearing the words "pusila, pusila" (shoot! shoot!), and then shots ringing out. The next footage showed Ninoy Aquino dead on the tarmac and soldiers trying to pick up his body.

That video footage – akin to the Zapruder 8-mm film during JFK's assassination – was to be replayed again and again in schools everywhere, and in homes, and was very elemental in galvanizing an entire nation to protest against the Marcoses, and eventually throw them out of power.

Ninoy's death meant a lot for us Filipinos, yes even to me who had only scant knowledge about him prior to Aug. 21, 1983. It helped open my eyes to the realities in our country, and see the dark side of the Marcoses (even though truth to tell, my childhood was pretty much safe under's FM's regime, and there was no queing for rice, unlike today).

Has anything changed really from Marcoses time to today? The same corrupt infrastructures are still in place, the same faces are still around, a number of them possibly responsible for Ninoy's death and the countless of others who tried to warn us about the atrocities committed under the strongman's regime. The same mistakes are made, the same misdirected government policies implemented, all in the glorious name of the people. 25 years after, Filipinos are poorer, less educated, and are hocking all their possessions just to get a chance to leave the Philippines and work abroad.

Perhaps it's just as well that thanks to the presidentita and her holiday economics, Aug. 21, is just an ordinary day like any.

From Joanne Zapanta-Andrada

Phil. Star columnist Joanne Zapanta-Andrada reacts to my blog entry on her recent column which included an item on my late nephew, Jong Cariño. Her comments below:

hi stella! this is joanne zapanta-andrada and I am really curious what nasty things you wrote about my dressing the president. hahaha! more importantly, i want to say how much jong's death has touched my life. what i did not mention in my article is how many friends he had who responded immediately when they found out he had the accident. they flooded the hospital. he had soo many friends! how blessed he truly was! many great and famous people can never claim the same amount of true friends. i truly wish i knew him! i know he was a special person and i have become a better person to have been with him in his last moments on earth! (Oct. 31, 1:25 am)

tried to write you a couple of times but they never got through. this is joanne zapanta-andrada and i am glad that my last article held some meaning for you. maybe you can tell me what nasty things you said about my dressing the president. hahaha! but more important, i wish yo could tell me about jong. what i do know without a doubt is that he live a full life in his young age. within minutes of my calling his friends (using his cell) they all flooded the ER of asian hospital. many wealthy and influential people can only wish to have as many real friends as jong did. i think he was a very special person indeed! (Oct. 31, 1:44 am)

i saw the photo you posted re gma in a very "butch" outfit. that outfit is not part of her official wardrobe. no idea where it came from. probably it was a gift from a friend as it is not part of our collection. the operative word in my job as wardrobe adviser is "adviser". you can prepare the best outfit and advise her to wear it but if she has her mind set on her own idea of an attire that day , you do not argue with the commander in chief. (Oct. 31, 1:58 am)

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Now, this terno is gorgeous! (From the Philippine Embassy in China)

Hi Joanne! Apologies on behalf of Blogger which can be get a bit funky, thus, unable to register some of my readers' comments. If you wish to know more about Jong, I ask that you contact his mother Bingbing who also lives in your village, or my nieces who used to hang out with him. I can give you their phone numbers if you wish.

Anyway, thanks for writing in and yes, the entire Filipino nation forgives you for the fashion faux pas of the Presidentita which are not of your doing. Hehehe. However, knowing that you are her wardrobe adviser, fashion consultant, and stylist and seeing her photographed in several horrendous outfits, it is inevitable that you will get blamed. I would resign the job if I were in your shoes, since it certainly does not add to your market value at all being associated with a fashion victim. Hahaha! As my mother always likes to say, money can't buy you class (nor good taste, I may add).

Sorry, I know the Macapagal family is close to the Zapantas but truly, with all the problems this country is suffering from, the public should at least have an escape by being able to look forward to a fashionable head of state sana. I mean, look at how we Filipinos let the Marcoses stay on for such a horrific length of time? Ang gandah kasi ng Lola Imelda! Hahaha!

In fairness to you though, the Presidentita's ternos and Maria Clara outfits are really pretty and I'm glad that she has brought back these traditional Filipina dresses into the presidential wardrobe. I could never understand why Tita Cory banned the terno from her presidential closet just because Lola Imelda wore it so fabulously. (But how true is it that GMA got two for one by being Ninang to someone's wedding, thus incensing the bride's father because he had to pay for both? One of those allegedly ended up on the Sona stage. Oops!)

Btw, pls. tell your boss to get a new makeup artist if she already doesn't have one. I'm no fashion plate either but at least I know how to blend my foundation. (See GMA's photo a few entries down below.) Joskopooo!

This is not! These long coats make her look even smaller. (Photo from China Daily)

Seriously though, I am glad that Joanne is among the very few who defies the stereotype of the fashion model. She is no dumbina this woman, having graduated cum laude from UP Creative Writing (tadaaah!) and having been able to reinvent herself as a photographer, columnist, and philantrophist. I've always known her to be "just" a fashion model (as if that weren't a difficult job as it is), looking pretty and glamourous in all those beautiful outfits by our celebrated fashion designers. Most of all I remember her for her creamy white flawless complexion, and no wonder, alagang VMV pala sya!

She reminds me of another former model Gina Leviste who graduated summa cum laude from De La Salle (and also a Kulasa like Joanne) whom the late Bro. Andrew Gonzalez once rued to me was a "disappointment" because of her career choices. I snickered as Bro. Andrew said this. I loved Gina just the same because as an artista, she was funny on TV. She still was a success despite what Bro. Andrew thought. Hmmm...whatever has become of Gina Leviste pala?

Btw, for someone who was so photographed as a model, photos of Joanne are non-existent on the web. I wanted to post one but well, I couldn't find any after googling endlessly. There is a nice piece on her though in HerWord.com.

Hmmm...I wonder what Halloween outfit the Presidentita has on today...