Travel Bites: The sweet spots of Negros Occidental

“Summertime and the livin’ is easy

Fish are jumpin’ and the cotton is high

Oh, your daddy’s rich and your ma is good-lookin’

So hush, little baby; don’t you cry.…”

WHENEVER I think of Negros Occidental, I hear Ella Fitzgerald singing that song so languorously in my head, with Louie Armstrong at the trumpet.

The province once evoked a similar vibe and atmosphere as the colonial southern United States, except that sugar was the commodity that fueled the often rich and indulgent lifestyles of the hacienderos of old.

The sugar crisis of the 1980s, which led to a virtual collapse of the industry, took away some of the wealth, but not the joie de vivre of its people. In fact, its famous fiesta, MassKara Festival, regularly held around the time of Bacolod City’s charter day (October 19), was created amid those horrendous years, to inspire the residents to get back on their feet and triumph against all odds.

Reminiscent of the carnival in Rio de Janeiro, the MassKara Festival features street dancers in artistic displays of handcrafted masks and colorful costumes, beauty contests, food festivals, trade fairs and sports events.

Aside from Bacolod’s MassKara Festival, the entire province whoops it up during the Panaad Festival—where all the cities and municipalities of the province gather at the Panaad Stadium in Bacolod City and showcase their wares. There will be a lot of drinking, dancing and eating during this weeklong festival, which will be held from April 8 to 14 this year.

Of course, everything is still about sugar in Negros, and most of the sights will still remind you of its once-glorious sweet past. And then there’s the food—just gems of culinary flavors that make Negrense cuisine arguably the best in the Philippines.

Masskara Festival in Bacolod (Photo courtesy Department of Tourism)

Must-see’s

On the whole, the province has been able to preserve most of the vestiges of its past including heritage homes and the facades of old churches.

Known as “Paris of Negros,” Silay City is a treasure trove of well-preserved ancestral homes.  Balay Negrense (Cinco de Noviembre Street, Silay City), which was built by sugar baron Victor Gaston, is a typical bahay na bato (stone house) It has since been turned into a museum and furnished with authentic period furniture from the 19th century.

Another heritage home in Silay worth seeing is the Hofileña Heritage House because the owner, Ramon Hofileña, still lives there and regales his guests with stories of the old Silay. It also features his private art collection and family heirloom pieces. Call 034-495-4561 for bookings. (For more on Silay’s heritage, contact the Silay City Tourism Division, Green House, Generoso Gamboa Street, 034-495-5145.)

In Bago City, there is also the ancestral home of Gen. Juan Anacleto Araneta who led a revolt of locals versus the Spaniards. The house has also been turned into a museum and a repository of the family’s memorabilia and furniture.

Most of the centuries-old churches in Negros Occidental may be intact but most their interiors had been restored with a modern touch. Still, worth a look-see are the San Sebastian Cathedral in the provincial capital Bacolod City   (constructed in 1876), the Saint  Mary Magdalene in Hinigaran (1881) and Our Lady of the Guadalupe (1851) in Valladolid.

While not heritage churches, the Church of Cartwheels in Hacienda Rosalia, Manapla, is uniquely designed using farm tools and implements, while the Church of the Angry Christ in Victorias features the mural of an angry Christ by local artist Alfonso Ossorio who wanted to portray Judgment Day.

The Ruins (Talisay City) is what remains of the European-style mansion of Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson. According to local history, it was burned down during World War II by the American forces and local guerrillas to prevent Japanese forces from using it as their headquarters. It is a picturesque reminder of what was once a romantic and opulent time in the province’s history. Wine and dine at the restaurant within the property or play a round of mini-golf. (For particulars call  0917-8326-003 or 034-4764-334.)

The Ruins in Talisay City (Photo from www.theruins.com.ph)

Have a picnic at the Mambukal Mountain Resort (Barangay Minoyan, Murcia) and try to reach all seven waterfalls that run throughout the property. It also has a bathhouse fed by hot springs, known to have therapeutic properties, as well as gardens and a lush forest. There are also cottages available for those who want to stay overnight. (http://www.mambukalhaven.com/)

Must-do’s

Chow it down. Aside from the chicken inasal or barbecue chicken (Aida’s, Manokan Country, SM City reclamation area), Negros Occidental is also popular for its seafood (served grilled at Aboy’s, Golden Field Commercial Complex, Bacolod City); kansi, slow-boiled tender beef shanks in broth soured with batuan, a local fruit (Sharyn’s Cansi House, C-58 Narra Avenue, Capitol Shopping Center, Bacolod City); and lumpiang ubod, a spring roll with heart of palm filling (El Ideal Bakery and Refreshment, 118 Rizal Street, Silay City).

For fresh diwal or Angel Wing’s Clams, drive out to Valladolid where vendors have set up stalls along the national highway; piaya, barquillos and barquiron from Sugarlandia (Yulo-Lizares Street, Bacolod City); and sweet treats like napoleones and half-moon from Pendy’s (25th and Lacson Street, Bacolod City), cakes and pastries from Felicia’s Cafe (6th Lacson Street, DOLL Building, Bacolod City).

The best of Negros cooking is really whipped up in the kitchens of the old families of the province. Many of these families have handed down their recipes through generations and keep these as closely-guarded secrets. So if you ever find yourself invited to the home of local residents, do not pass up the opportunity!

The succulent Diwal (Angel Wing Clam) is just one of the tasty seafood available in Negros Occidental.

Swing it! Negros Occidental hosts three world-class golf courses—Bacolod Golf and Country Club (Alcabaza Street, Bacolod City), Victorias Golf and Country Club (Vicmico, Victorias) and Negros Golf and Country Club (Bata Subdivision, Bacolod City). Except for Victorias, which has an open policy, the other two are private golf courses and thus, you need to be accompanied by a member to be able to play as a guest there.

Environmental check. Ecotourists will want to visit the Danjugan Island Marine Sanctuary in Cauayan (http://prrcf.org/danjugan-sanctuary) run by the Philippine Reef and Rainforest Conservation Foundation Inc. for snorkeling, kayaking and other marine activities, or the Mount Kanlaon Natural Park for hiking and mountain climbing. Hiking permits must first be secured from the park management at the Department of Environment and Natural Resources office (Cascuela Building, Gatuslao Street, Bacolod City T# 034-7085-637).

You can also scope out the water birds at the Pulupandan (Sitio Cavan, Barangay Tapong), where some 46 species have been surveyed including some that are on the globally “threatened” list. Visitors should register at the Pulupandan municipal office, which will provide a guide to the birdwatching area. The best times to see the birds are 4-6 a.m. and 3-6 p.m. (For more tourism ideas and tour packages, http://tourism.negros-occ.gov.ph/)

Where to stay

Bacolod City is the most convenient area as a base even while traveling throughout Negros Occcidental. But one must not expect four- or five-star accommodations. At best, most hotels approximate three-star accommodations but guests are rewarded with the most accommodating staff and the friendliest of smiles, after all, Bacolod is the City of Smiles.

East View Hotel (Circumferential Road and E. Diola Street, Bacolod) is not exactly centrally-located, but taxis are always available to take guests to the city center. Its rooms are spacious and always kept clean, a good selection of dishes from its buffet breakfast, and staffare friendly and always accommodating. (For inquiries, click http://www.eastviewhotel.com)

Because it is relatively new and centrally located, Avenue Suites (Corner 12th Lacson Street, Bacolod City) is a nice choice as well. It has good-sized rooms with LED TV screens and its beds are comfortable. Only downside is that guests have to take their free breakfast at Pancake House although it is within the hotel premises. But there are better restaurants all within walking distance that can perhaps offer more Bacoleño breakfast dining options. (Checkhttp://www.avenuesuites.com.ph/ for booking details.)

Getting there: All major carriers fly to Bacolod City daily.

Getting around: Either drive yourself or hire a private car and driver. Check out Nyala Tours (http://www.nyalatoursbacolod.com) or MECA-J Rent A Car, 034-433-6948 or  0918-9282-560.

(This piece was originally published on March 11, 2013, in the BusinessMirror.)

Travel Bites: One of the world’s best beaches, at your doorstep

The sun begins to set in Boracay, voted as the World’s Best Island in 2012 by readers of the prestigious Travel+Leisure magazine. 

BORACAY Island in the province of Aklan consistently rates as one of the best beach destinations in the world. 

Last year, tourist arrivals were expected to have reached 1.2 million despite the unofficial ban on Chinese group travels. South Koreans continue to account for the largest group of foreign tourists in the island paradise, but the bulk of visitors are still domestic tourists. 

So I find it incredulous when I meet, as I have over the last couple of years, new friends or acquaintances who have yet to swim in the island’s cool clear waters, or wiggle their toes in its powder-white sand. I’ve always thought that if one must travel outside one’s provenance for leisure for the first time, Boracay has got to be one’s first destination, or at least on the top list of go-to places in the country. 

And with the stiff competition among local carriers driving down airfare, one no longer needs to spend a humongous amount of funds just to fly to Boracay, and enjoy the many pleasures it offers. 

There is also an overwhelming number of choices of accommodations for every type of tourist—from the seriously bare one-note cottage that attracts the backpacking set (usually at Station 3), to the high-end-$1,000++ a-night villas that exude luxury for the pampered leisure traveler (Station 1). 

And if you have a phobia of crowds, this is absolutely the best time of year to go to Boracay. The air is chilly especially in the morning, and while the sun is usually out, the heat is quite tolerable. 

Must-see’s 

The beaches. While the 4.5-km stretch of white beach is the main attraction of Boracay, and is the central area where revelers sunbathe and hang out before taking a swim, there are other beaches on the island that are worth a look-see. 

Yapak Beach, commonly called Puka Shell Beach, is located on the northern tip of the island and accessible by motorized bancas or pump boats. The beach is literally littered with the bead-like cone snail shells that are usually made into necklaces and bracelets. (Puka shell jewelry became popular in the 1970s when actress Elizabeth Taylor started wearing her pieces made in Hawaii.) 

The main white beach of Boracay is famous the world over as one of the best beaches in the world. 

Bulabog Beach is every windsurfer or kiteboarder’s paradise, with strong winds from January to June encouraging amateur and professional competitions among locals and visitors. From the main white beach, one can reach Bulabog by crossing to the opposite side of the island via several pathways. 

For amateur spelunkers and wildlife enthusiasts, Ilig-Iligan Beach is a good place to explore caves and see fruit bats hanging from trees. Located on the east coast of Boracay, the beach is accessible by motorbikes or on foot although the hike will probably take about 30 minutes or longer, depending on one’s pace. It is also a favorite among snorkelers. 

The mountain. To further appreciate the beauty of Boracay, one can rent an ATV or motorbike and drive to the top of Mount Luho. It is the highest point on the island and will reward the hardy trekker with stunning views of the island and the surrounding sea. There is a viewdeck, a mini-zoo, as well as zipline that will please both the animal lover and the thrillseekers. There is an entrance fee of P60. 

The mall. Or D’Mall as it is called on the island. This is ground zero for the enthusiastic shopper. Here there are a hundreds of sarong (the tie-died and batik varieties) to choose from, as well as the gamut of native handmade jewelry, bathing suits, souvenir T-shirts, even furniture and home accessories. The spot is also famous for bars and restaurants offering a variety of international and local cuisine although the entire white beach is riddled with numerous restaurant and café choices to please even the most discriminating of palates. 

To-do’s 

Ride the waves. One of the newest activities on the island is Wavepool Surfing. The pools are at Crown Regency Resort with the Philippine Surfing Academy conducting basic surfing lessons in a safe environment. (You attend a class first where you are taught how to handle and balance on a surfboard on land, before you are actually set free on the wave pools.) While the activity is in a controlled environment, one cannot underestimate the thrill and rush of popping on the surfboard and riding the waves. If you fall, just get back on your board and skim the waves again. (Call PSA at 631-2805 or 0917-894-6767 or e-mail philippinesurfingacademy@gmail.com. Web site: www.philippinesurfingacademy.com.) 

Like pretty mermaids, all in a row. (Photo from Sailorgil.tumbler.com)

Swim like a mermaid. Indulge your fantasy and get a workout as well—mermaid swimming offers tourists a fun way of keeping fit. Two-hour swimming lessons are conducted at Ti Braz restaurant between Stations 1 and 2, and yes, you do get to slip into a mermaid tail. Basic swimming skills are required. The classes are run by the Philippine Mermaid Swimming Academy, composed of expert swimmers and divers. Mermaid fitness workouts will soon be offered. (For bookings, check out https://www.facebook.com/PhilippineMermaidSwimmingAcademy/info). 

Party during the full moon. The newest place to party or chill to the island vibe is at Area 51, located at a secluded spot in the southernmost tip of Bulabog Beach. Set up by the former owners of Hey Jude!, Area 51 hosts new moon and full moon parties where patrons can just let loose and dance to the trendy sounds of resident DJs Manster and Reo. (For reservations, call Jude at 0917-3274824 or Karen at 0917-7161626, or click www.facebook.com/area51boracay.) 

Gorge on seafood. Name it, Boracay has it. Whether you are hankering for lobsters or oysters, mud crabs or sweet shrimps, prawns as well as a variety of reef fishes, D’Talipapa assures that your favorite seafood is available at the most reasonable price. 

After buying your seafood, take them to any of the nearby eateries and for a minimal charge, have them cooked any which way you want, and enjoy a tropical feast. 

Though seafood is top of mind in beach destinations, Boracay is also home to some of the best international cuisines offering meat-based dishes and fabulous desserts. Some choice restaurants and cafés include Caruso (Italian) at The District along Station 2, Kasbah (Moroccan) at Station 1, Lemoni Café at D’Mall for the best lemon tart. 

Where to stay

Seafoods are aplenty at D'Talipapa. You can buy them and have them cooked at the nearby restaurants, or in this case, order them at Sun Villa.

Sun Villa Resort & Spa (back of D’Talipapa, Station 2) is one of the island’s little known secrets for bang for the buck spa treatments. The resort is a haven of calm and tranquility. Sleep all day, dine on lovingly prepared home-cooked meals upon waking, then just laze about in the pool area with the iPod playing away while you leaf through a book or magazine. (For reservations, call 036-288-5541, 036-288-4410, or 036-288-1306. For more details, check out its web page at www.facebook.com/sunspaboracay.) 

For luxurious accommodations and professional caring staff, Discovery Shores Boracay (Station 1) is the obvious choice. The rooms are spacious with an oh-so-relaxing bed that immediately lulls one to sleep. But what is really endearing about Discovery Shores is its friendly, courteous and efficient staff ever ready with a smile for guests and a warm greeting to perk up one’s day. Everyone speaks English fluently and will answer with their de riguer “Certainly!” when asked to perform a chore, or when responding to a request. Its mojitos are also the best on the island. (For more details, click http://www.discoveryshoresboracay.com/discoveryshores/) 

(Travel Bites is published every Monday on the front page of the BusinessMirror. This piece was published on Jan. 7, 2013. All photo copyrights owned by this blogger, except for the mermaid photo.)

Travel Bites: Captivating Capiz

SEAFOOD capital of the Philippines. Aswang capital of the world. Now who can beat Capiz? 

Okay, that bit about the aswang, a mythical Philippine ghoul, was a joke—I have never seen one, nor has anyone from the province I’ve spoken to. But if seafood and serious downtime are your game, then Capiz is for you. 

While it offers the usual amenities of a progressive city (e.g., a mall, cable TV and Internet services, a fast-food chain and banks), it still remains laid-back. Life in Capiz, even in its capital Roxas City, is generally tranquil—it will fulfill any tourist’s wish of just kicking back and relax. 

There are of course many things to do in Roxas City if one wishes a place of activity. There are new spots of excitement in terms of sports bars, discos and clubs with live bands. Visitors who are also curious about art, culture and history of the province now have museums to go to. Foodies will immensely enjoy the variety of seafood that the province has to offer, at prices so unbelievably low you will never probably get up from the dining table! 

Must-see's

The biggest bell in Asia can be found at the Sta. Monica Church in Pan-ay, Capiz, just 20 minutes from Roxas City, the provincial capital. The tolling of the bell can be heard many miles away. (Photo by Nikka A. Policarpio)

The beginnings. Ang Panubli-on or the Roxas City Museum on Hughes Street, Roxas City (T# 036-621-2070), was initially built as a water reservoir. It has since been turned into a museum housing artifacts from Capiz’s ethnic groups. The museum also displays photographs of outstanding Capizeños like the late Manuel A. Roxas (the country’s first President), and of various churches in Roxas City and the entire Capiz. It also showcases antiques and heirloom pieces owned by locals. 

For whom the bell tolls. The biggest church bell in Asia is found at the Sta. Monica Church, in Pan-ay, Capiz, just about 20 minutes away from Roxas City. Legend has it that the townsfolk donated about 70 sacks of coins to cast  the 10.4-ton bell which was completed in 1878. On a clear day, the tolling bell can be heard all over Capiz. The church itself, designed in the Baroque style, has still retained some of its Spanish-era features.

Here fishy, fishy. To understand Capiz is to take a look at the lifeblood of the economy. If given the chance, try to get yourself invited to some of the local fishponds teeming with milkfish or prawns, or the oyster and mussel farms. (Ask the assistance of the City Tourism Office at the Balay Capiznon on McKinley St. to arrange a visit.)  It can be extremely satisfying to see how locals make a living, and how that mud crab or milkfish got caught before making it to your dining table. You just need to wake up very early in the morning to see all the action.

To-do's  

Island hopping. Visit Olotayan Island, which styles itself as Capiz’s own Boracay, albeit with a coarser white sand. It’s about 45 minutes away by banca from the Barangay Banica wharf, and has been declared a marine sanctuary to preserve the island’s fragile marine resources. Swimming and snorkeling are definitely a must-do on this island, as well as languid picnic lunches with great conversation fueled with ice-cold beer. Day tours are advised although one can stay on the island as well in bare bones cottages (T# 036-621-1058 for inquiries). Magatalihan and Napti Islands are also ideal for diving. 

Baybay beach in Roxas City, Capiz is where all the locals congregate to relax and swim. Along the beach are a lot of grills and restaurants that serve the fresh catch of the day. (Photo by Nikka A. Policarpio)

Spelunking. There are a number of caves all over Capiz worth exploring. The most popular among avid spelunkers are the Sohoton Cave in the municipality of Jamindan and Pilar Caves in Pilar. Those who want an easier trek can try Igang Cave in Maayon. The Suhot Cave in Dumalag is also another popular destination because of its cold springs. (Call the Capiz Provincial Tourism Office at T# 036-621-0042 to assist you in arranging spelunking trips.) 

River cruise. Take a cruise down the Cadimahan River and be serenaded as you take in the scenes of rural Capiz. Get a foot spa or whole body massage as well. Best of all, by taking this river cruise, you help support the rehabilitation of the river and give alternative jobs to local fishermen. (For inquiries, call T# 036-621-5918 or CP# +63912-8516477.) Call Timeline Travel and Tours (T# 520-7036/ CP# +63917-4974422) to arrange a sunset cruise down Panay River, fishing expeditions, island hopping, as well as other local tours. 

Where to stay

Capiz is known as the 'Seafood Capital of the Philippines. It grows mud crabs (alimango), oysters, milkfish (bangus), prawns (sugpo), shrimps (suahe), among others. (Photo from Best Philppine Attractions.) 

In the city proper, choose Roxas President’s Inn (T# 036-6210-208) on Rizal and Lopez Jaena Streets. It is an affordable boutique hotel and a consistent favorite among business executives and even TripAdvisor members. All suites have Wi-Fi connection. 

If you want to wake up to the sound of the surf every morning, check out Baia Norte Beach Club Hotel (Tabai Grande, Baybay/ T# 036-621-2165). Basic air-conditioned rooms, but with friendly staff. Its restaurant serves fresh seafood. 

San Antonio Resort (T# 036-621-6638) at Barangay Lawis Baybay is just a five-minute walk across the road from the beach and has more upscale facilities like a large swimming pool and three restaurants. The rooms are clean and spacious while staff are certainly accommodating. It offers a number of tour/travel packages to fit the lifestyle of each guest. 

Getting there: Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific fly from Manila to Roxas City daily. For more on Capiz, click http://www.capiz.gov.ph. 

(Travel Bites is published every Monday in the front page of the BusinessMirror. This piece on Capiz was published on Oct. 22, 2012. Photos by Nikka A. Policarpio.)

Went looking for diwal but...

WE WENT to the Dampa at the Farmers' Market this morning looking for diwal (angel wings clam), today being the second day of the 2-day Capiz Seafood Fest, but didn't find any. According to the one and only seafood vendor there, the waves were strong in Capiz this morning so divers couldn't get to the clams.

We were there at 7:30 am bec. we were told the diwal ran out quickly yesterday. When we arrived, however, there was no Capiz seafood yet, so we went to the main market instead. Good thing bec. there were great finds - and we went home with a lot of fresh seafood at incredibly reasonable prices. I just love Farmers' Market because buyers are guaranteed good deals on most purchases.

I so wanted to buy the haricort vert but they were more expensive than the ones sold at the Salcedo market. So I passed on them. But we found lovely cherry tomatoes; I'm looking forward to our green salad tonight!

Suahe cost between P400-P450 per kilo, depending on the size; mud crabs (alimango) were priced between P450-P550/k depending on the sex (babae, lalaki, bakla); Kuhol was P40/kilo w/c we had coooked in coconut milk (gata) at one of the restos in the Dampa area (unfortunately, the dish didn't taste as good as the one done by Aling Tonya's at Dampa, Parañaque); med-sized mussels at P60/k, etc.

Here are some of the products found at the market:

All in all, it was a productive morning and I didn't mind at all that we couldn't get our diwal. (I was told that yesterday, at the start of the Capiz Seafood Fest, the clams were selling for P250/k but buyers were limited to one kilo each.) But our loot today was more than enough to overcome our diwal disappointment.

Anyhoo, I understand that the Capiz Seafood Fest is just first among province-themed festivals that the Araneta Center would be mounting in the next few months. It's a great idea, so the food and products of many of the country's distinct regions can get the promotion they deserve. It makes these items very accessible to Manila-based consumers, and is a good way to market these provinces as food and travel destinations.