The French Connection

TO the uninitiated in the gustatory pleasures of French cuisine, the names of the dishes alone are enough to make one feel insecure about ordering. A typical French restaurant’s menu would usually have foie gras, escargot, coq au vin, boeuf à la bourguignonne, mille-feuilles...just trying to pronounce these is already quite a mouthful.

While only a few years ago there must’ve been one or two hotel-based restaurants and some standalone specializing in French cuisine, recently—maybe in the last five years or so—gustatory pleasures with a French accent have once more gained traction in the local dining scene. At the top of my head, I can count about 10 or so standalone French restaurants, located outside of hotels, in varying degrees of quality.

Two of my favorites are in Makati: La Régalade, a bistro coowned by veteran hotelier Bubot Quicho, businessman Tonyboy Cojuangco, and a veritable who’s who in Philippine industry, with a menu created by two-star Michelin Chef Alain Rayé; and Restaurant CiÇou, owned and operated by Chef Cyrille Soenen (nicknamed CiÇou), who made his name locally as the chef of Prince Albert of the Hotel InterContinental Manila. (Click BusinessMirror for the rest. All photos except for Chef Soenen's profile, is copyrighted by Ma. Stella F. Arnaldo.)

--Unfinished--

Quick(ie) bites

(Chef Alain Rayé in the kitchen preparing our lunch.)

I FINALLY HAD the chance to meet two-star Michelin chef Alain Rayé, chef patron and owner of La Régalade West Vancouver last Friday. He prepared lunch for a few friends and I at La Régalade in Makati, a restaurant co-owned by veteran hotelier, Perfecto "Bubut" Quicho, businessman Antonio "Tony Boy" Cojuangco, and a host of partners - mostly businessmen who revel in fine food and wines.

I'VE gone to La Régalade in Makati a few times since it first opened in late 2008, whenever I've had a hankering for Duck Leg Confit, Manila clams and Lemon Tart. I've always liked the laidback style of the place, and because it's basically quiet, even when there are lot of diners. (Quicho explained to us before that it's because the fabrics they used in their seating, and in their lampshades absorb stray sounds.) What's more, the dishes are moderately priced, easily affordable by even the white-collar working men and women of Makati. And no joke, I've seen them pack this place at lunch!

Chef Alain is pretty much what everyone's idea of a Frenchman is. He is passionate about his food, his wines, and of course, his women. All that translates into his country-cooked dishes which are all heart and soul. These are dishes which you don't have to dress up for in your ballgown and blings, although the restaurant surely won't turn away anyone who does turn up at the door this way. (Picture this, Manila clams cooked in white wine and pepper cream sauce, then use some of their marvelous crusty bread to sop up the sauce. It's fabulous when you have some chilled white wine to wash it all down. At the end of a meal like this, I can't help but lightly suck at my fingertips just to taste some more of the clams delightfully salty-sweet piquant sauce.)

Some people have described Chef Alain's dishes as comfort food - like that bowl of steaming bulalo on a lovely rainy day. I think his genius lies in making his simple rustic dishes evoke so much feelings of extreme pleasure and immense satisfaction. So to me, it's more like the afterglow after a round of quick rough sex. It's intensely gratifying but you are left wanting for more.

Here are the dishes we had for lunch, in smaller portions though from the usual, just so we could have a sampling of what's being served on his special menu.


(Parmesan cheese w/ tomatoes served w/ a side salad in tapenade dressing - your basic vinaigrette w/ black olives tapenade. The sour-sweet combination of the salad complements the salty grated cheese topped by the sweetness of the juicy ripe tomato slices.)



(Fried prawns w/ fresh thyme. Very light, w/ the prawns succulent - a perfect summer dish. Perhaps bec. fresh thyme was used, there were only some hints of the latter; and does not overpower the dish w/ its usually strong flavor.)



(Daube of veal cheeks, left, with creamy potato gratin on the side. Pinoys use pork cheeks basically for our sisig, along w/ other portions of the pig's mouth and snout. Who would've thought that on its own, especially from a young pig, the cheeks would be so fleshy? Cooked slowly in red wine, the dish is decidedly tender and just easy to slice into. The tomato confit and fried basil lends the dish some sweet punch, w/ the dark chocolate easing in some tartness.)



(Left, Tarte Tatin and Tarte Chocolat on the right, w/c my spoon sliced into. Known around our parts as molten lava chocolate cake, the Tarte Chocolat oozes w/ a lot of chocolatey goodness. Some may find these a little too sugary, but for those w/ a sweet tooth, these would be probably winners for them. The capuccino that was served w/ these creations was excellent, however. The restaurant only uses Illy coffee, and so Cheffy was genuinely surprised when we told him that we produce exceptional coffee beans here in the Phils. as well, some of w/c make their away abroad.)

The Makati restaurant is currently holding its 1st Food Festival, w/ Chef Alain whipping up French bistro fare for dinner. And I must tell you, those tables are going fast, so reservations are very much encouraged. Ricky Banaag, a partner in the restaurant (another foodie, but whose dayjob is overseeing Intel Phils.' operations) says they've had to make even some of the co-owners - I won't say who - wait for their tables, esp. when they stroll in unannounced w/ no reservations. (Just a note, the two Michelin stars the chef earned back home in Paris were for his luxury fine-dining fare, so don't expect any of that in here - remember, no ballgowns, tuxedos and blings. I forgot to ask Chef Alain though if he missed that kind of complicated cooking at all.)


(The menu for the food festival. Some have commented that some dishes on the menu are not exactly French, but as Chef Alain says, "you've got to have some balance." I would think as this is bistro fare, the restaurant needs to put in some easily recognizable dishes, esp. for those unintiated in French cuisine. But he stresses that, for instance, "gnocchi is not just Italian," as there are a lot of French recipes that use potatoes in a similar manner - dumplings style w/ a variety of sauces.)

Chef Alain says the dishes the diners respond to the most will probably end up in the restaurant's main dining menu. (I just hope they still keep my old favorites!) And bec. he is so impressed w/ the quality of our seafood here, he will also be creating more seafood dishes for the new menu. Of course the challenge for the restaurant's owners now is to maintain the same exceptional Rayé quality of the cuisine, even when Chef Alain has gone home to Canada. (Believe me, we tried to persuade him to stay here. But Manila is just too hot for the chef. And after seeing his iPhone's photos of the morning scenery from his bedroom window back home, we don't blame him for wanting stay there!)

Now, it's not everytime you get to have your dinner cooked by a two-star Michelin chef, so I suggest you not waste your time and reserve a table right now. La Regalade's 1st Food Festival lasts until April 18. For inquiries, call 750-2104 and 05, or check out their web site at www.laregalademanila.com.

Bubut Quicho reflects on the US elections

FOR those still too young not to know or remember him, Perfecto "Bubut" Quicho was probably the first Filipino to ever head a major foreign hotel chain (Hyatt Regency) in the Philippines. He has gone on to become a partner in several restaurant ventures mostly with businessman Tonyboy Cojuangco, the latest of which is the newly-opened French bistro in Makati called La Régalade.

I got this email from a friend who wanted to share Mr. Quicho's thoughts on the conduct of elections in the United States and in the Philippines, and how local politicians need to behave more statesmanlike whether they win or lose. Read on:

We need change even more.

For the past couple of years, there was so much to dislike about America. After just one day – with the way they carried out a presidential election – there is so much to admire about America.

How can their elections be so inspiring, when ours have been so hopeless, even disgusting?

There are lessons to be learned here. Lessons we have to take to heart if we are to get out of the rut we are in. We have just been shown what clean elections are all about.

Foremost of the lessons is how ordinary citizens can control their fate, instead of having politicians control them.

The American people took their responsibility as voters seriously. Instead of asking, they gave – which right away eliminated the politics of patronage that has blighted elections all over the world.

Ordinary people contributed to the Obama campaign – small amounts of one to ten dollars each, which grew to millions of dollars because there were millions of them who gave.

The same ordinary people were actively involved – volunteering to work for their candidates, campaigning in their areas, and urging everyone to get out and vote.

Voters respected their rights. They came out in huge numbers– many going to the polls at break of dawn, enduring long lines and waiting for hours – to make sure their votes will be in.

The politicians were just as responsible. While there were some personal attacks and unsavory statements, the campaigns for the most part tackled issues and explained where they stood to the people. Much more than the mudslinging, there was a serious discussion of programs and prescriptions to deal with the nation's most pressing problems.

There was no cheating, nor attempts to subvert the election process, which has been part and parcel of our own elections. Which made it easy for everyone to accept the results.

The candidates displayed wisdom and maturity in the aftermath. Senator John McCain was gracious and magnanimous in defeat, despite the passion with which he competed against his rival, as he delivered what was described by a TV anchor as a "handsomely generous speech."

President-elect Barack Obama, in his own speech, was grateful, conciliatory, and grounded in reality as he acknowledged the challenges the nation faced and the hard work that waited to be done.

And he was humble in victory, telling the people that "I will listen to you, specially when we disagree." How different from the way our President reacts to critical views.


(Mano-mano counting in Manila. Photo by David Greedy/Getty Images, May 10, 2004)
But above all, we have to learn how count the votes quickly and get the results out immediately. Despite having to use different systems and unavoidable glitches, everyone in the US was determined to get the votes in and counted as quickly as possible. Not one politician made an attempt to delay the proceedings or manufacture excuses to postpone the counting. They did not want to influence the outcome, they wanted to know what the real results were.

Long drawn out counting of votes is the sure recipe for failed elections. But through the years, our political leaders have thwarted every attempt to computerize the elections.

We can do it, of course. The Indians have shown the way, using an efficient and inexpensive automation system that even the US concedes is superior to theirs.

But no one in our country is even taking a look at this system which can solve our election woes.

Most candidates believe that the only way to assure victory is to monkey with the results – long counts allow that to happen, automation will make it very difficult.

These trapos completely ignore the fact that the best way to win elections is to genuinely work for the welfare of the people.

It is more rewarding for them to make fortunes from irregular deals and tainted projects. And to win votes – they grandstand, issue empty statements that land in media, spoil local leaders with favors in exchange for support, use money to influence voters when election time comes, and tamper with the results that do not go their way.

We need to change, more than they do in America.

People need to develop the courage to stand up for what is good for them. Demand concrete platforms and clear solutions to the problems that savage us. Get involved in the process by exercising the right and protecting their votes.

Our leaders have to look beyond their interests and give the people their due. By not insulting their intelligence with campaigns that are more like showbiz-style circuses. Campaigns should be what they are supposed to – a chance to let people know what they stand for and how they intend to help the taong bayan. With specific, concrete plans of action and not merely slogans and catch phrases.

They must seriously attend to the job of working for the people, does anyone still remember that officials are supposed to be public servants?

And we must finally overhaul the rotten political system that has only made our people miserable. Starting with the use of appropriate technology – something practical, affordable and suited to our needs – to automate our elections.

The politics of corruption and naked power has to end.

It is time to give the Filipino people the governance they deserve.