Travel Bites: Sagada - up in the clouds

MY most distinct memory of Sagada, Mountain Province—aside from the climate that chills you right to the bone—was my heart thumping so loudly against my chest I thought it would surely leap out. This, after a bit of hiking up some tree-lined hill and forgetting just how thin the air is up there. (That was the time I decided to give up hiking, so scared was I that I would drop dead from that experience.)

Bomod-ok Falls (Photo from 

http://sagadaphilippines.com/

On a positive note, I was overwhelmed with the raw power and breathtaking natural sights in Sagada. There’s nothing like waking up, literally, with your head in the clouds; lush pine forests with the striking blue sky above; interestingly suggestive rock formations in a cave; or gushing waterfalls that pour into shallow pools below.

Most of the retailers, cafes and restaurants, as well as inns, are proudly local—owned by those who have a heart for Sagada and its environs. So city types should dispel notions of finding a McDonald’s or Starbucks anywhere there.

Despite the grandeur of Sagada’s surroundings, a word of caution—the trip may not be for everybody. Sagada is for those with a genuine love for outdoor adventure and nature. There will be long winding, bumpy rides, dampness, strenuous hikes, and just basic inns or B&Bs.

Bring a cap and a warm jacket, and leave your flipflops at home—this is rugged country and hiking boots or trekking shoes are more suited to the terrain. Also bring a face towel, lots of water and sunblock, especially on hikes! Just because it’s cool most of the time in Sagada doesn’t mean the sun’s rays are powerless.

Must-see’s

Sumaguing Cave. If you want proof that the earth was all under water once, this cave is it. Despite the altitude of Sagada, you can actually find seashells still stuck to the walls of the cave, frozen in time. In fact, the rock formations do look sculpted by water as they undulate and curve like ocean waves. Close the visit by taking a dip in the cave’s bone-chilling waters…brrr! Definitely a wake-upper! It is invigorating and will kick up your energy as you  make your way out of the cave and back to civilization.

Echo Valley. The valley is where the famous Hanging Coffins­—probably the most iconic Sagada tourist attraction—are located. It is a pleasant short hike through more trees and vegetation (while amusing yourself by shouting to hear your voice echo). A few of the coffins hanging on a cliff look new, but there are older coffins stacked on top of each other at the Lumiang Burial Cave.

Rice Terraces. These are smaller than those found in Banaue, and the Igorot farmers here piled rocks instead of compacting soil to construct them. You can view this agricultural masterpiece by hiking to the Kiltepan Tower—about 45-minutes to an hour from the town proper (tiring yes, but you are gifted with breathtaking views)—or rent a van to take you there. Locals will encourage you to take off much earlier for Kiltepan so you can catch the sunrise.

Rice terraces in Sagada (Photo from http://www.visitsagada.com)

Bomod-ok Falls. The hike to these waterfalls is about two hours and takes you through the stunning rice terraces, giving you an up close and personal perspective of this geographical wonder. The water plunges 200 feet from the top of a cliff, splashing onto craggy rocks, and into a pool below where you can  jump in for an invigorating swim. Yes, the waters are ice-cold but you’ll get used to the temperature eventually. The hike back will likely be more strenuous, and you will be sweating buckets for sure.

If long hikes are not for you, go to the Bokong or Small Falls instead. It’s some 20 minutes from the town proper, and while it is smaller with the water dropping from a height of just 20 feet, it has its charm as well. You can jump off from the top of the falls and plunge into the pool of water below. Even children can manage the short hike and you will definitely enjoy the swim.

Other places to visit if you still have time are the Latang Underground River, Lake Danum and the Saint Mary’s Episcopal Church. (Note: Some of the destinations do require a minimal entrance or environmental fee.)

Must-do’s

Eat up a storm. For those who want a local feel, try Pinikpikan Haus (Dao-angan, Sagada/0920-8135797) for its famous pinikpikan chicken, a dish traditionally prepared by lightly beating (pikpik) the live chicken first, before the bird is thrown into a pot of boiling water to remove the feathers, then its cut-up parts cooked into a broth flavored with etag (smoked dried pork­—another Igorot delicacy.) The restaurant also serves etag as a separate dish.

Lemon Pie House (Atey, Daoangan/0907-7820360) is famous for, you guessed it! lemon pies. The tart citrusy custard is topped off by a light toasted meringue, giving it a slightly sweet undertone. It’s best eaten with strong brewed coffee or some mountain tea, which the café also serves. For salads, pastas and thick, creamy yogurt topped with fruits, try the  Yoghurt House (Poblacion).

Check out the Log Cabin (Sagada-Besao Road/ 0920-5200463) for its Saturday Night Buffet of rustic French dishes, with freshly baked bread and divine desserts—very reasonably priced at only P300 (with a P100 deposit for reservation the day before). This is also the place to kick back and relax with a round of drinks after a day of touring, before turning in. (Besides you can’t do much late at night—Sagada still observes a 9 p.m. curfew.)

Shop around. For unique woven bags, wallets, placemats, espadrilles, etc. go to the Sagada Weaving and Souvenir Shop (Nangonogan, Poblacion/0918-9276488), which is just about a 10-minute walk from the center of the town. The women still use wooden handlooms and create a wide array of colorful and artistic fabric designs.

Sumaguing Cave (Photo from http://sagadaphilippines.com/)

Intricately designed clay pots, urns, jars, mugs and the like can be purchased at the Sagada Pottery House. For a standard fee, you can also learn how to  spin the wheel and sculpt a clay pot with your hands, from one of the artisans.

Get some beans. Sagada produces some of the best coffee beans in the country. Aside from the highland Arabica, it also produces the rare and expensive Café Alamid made from the droppings of civet cats. Buy your beans at Bana’s Restaurant, a favorite breakfast nook of tourists; aside from the robust full-bodied coffee, it serves great omelets as well.

Where to stay

Rock Inn and Café (http://www.rockfarmsagada.com) is some distance from the town proper but the perfect location away from the hordes of tourists. What’s more, it is located amid an orange orchard so you are allowed to pick and eat the fruits from the trees. Very clean and the staff are most courteous. The inn has massage services as well, an added bonus to soothe your tired sore muscles from doing all the hiking.

If you want to wake up to grand views of the mountains and greenery, check into the Kanip-aw Pines Lodge (0928-2847507/0926-6092960). The rooms are basic with firm beds, a private kitchenette and balconies that look out to the mesmerizing mountain views. The owner, Oscar Magwilang, is also a tourist guide and can bring you around Sagada.

Getting there: Yes you can drive all the way to Sagada; just make sure you have a powerful sedan or  SUV, as well as handy relatives or friends to take over the wheel when fatigue sets in. I’d recommend staying overnight in Baguio to recover from the six-hour trip, before heading the next morning to Sagada (six hours away via Halsema Highway).

Most who go to Sagada, though, commute. From Manila, take the Victory Liner (727-4534/833-5019 to 20), which has hourly bus trips to Baguio from its Caloocan, Pasay or Cubao terminals. Another option is Dagupan Bus (Cubao/929-6123); Dangwa Transit (Sampaloc, Manila/731–2879); Saulog Transit (Parañaque/825-2930); or Genesis Transport (Cubao or Pasay/T421-1427/551-0842).

From Baguio to Sagada, take the GL-Lizardo Bus to Sagada  at the Dangwa Terminal.

Other routes are via Banaue and Bontoc, which also give tourists the chance to explore these scenic places (e.g., Banaue Rice Terraces) before heading on to Sagada. Via Benguet, take Autobus (Sampaloc/4934111) or Dangwa Transit. The bus arrives in Banaue after nine hours. From the same terminal, transfer to a jeepney bound for Sagada and which will travel for about four hours.

If going via Bontoc, take Cabletours Bus (E. Rodriguez Avenue, Quezon City, inside the Trinity University campus/63918-5216790)—the trip will take 12 hours. From Bontoc, there are jeeps that go to Sagada; the ride will take an hour.

(For more on Sagada, check out http://www.visitsagada.com. Local tourist guides are available via the Sagada Genuine Guides Association at 0929-5569553 or the Sagada Environmental Guide Association at 0999-3915660 or 0919-7856140).

(This piece was originally published on April 8, 2013 in the BusinessMirror.)

Gourmet Farms expands to Cebu

SILANG, CAVITE—Gourmet Farms Inc. (GFI), the largest local supplier of freshly roasted coffee to premier hotels and restaurants in the country, is unfazed by the rising inflation and strengthening peso. Its officials are projecting a 23-percent growth in the company this year, with a multimillion-peso expansion plan in place for the Visayas, starting in Cebu.

(GOURMET Farms Inc. chairman and president Ernest Escaler is all smiles as his company continues its growth and expansion despite higher inflation and an unstable peso; (inset) an array of products from his farms.)

In an interview with select reporters, Ernest Escaler, chairman and president of GFI, said: “No [we’re not affected by higher inflation, higher peso rate], because we’re practically domestic. We’re not dependent on anything imported. That’s the whole concept of Gourmet Farms, [which] is to provide world-class products from a purely domestic source. So from Day One, the whole concept of Gourmet Farms is that we can prepare gourmet products without having to resort to imported materials. So the higher the dollar is, the higher prices rise, we become more competitive.”

Aside from its seven types of premium ground coffee blends, including pure arabica and barako (Excelsa), GFI also has three other product lines: six different herbal teas using indigenous herbs and vegetables such as ginger, sambong, banaba, ampalaya, pito-pito and lagundi; 13 kinds of pasta sauces, dips and salad dressings under its Kitchen Exclusives line; and 14 varieties of organically grown lettuce and culinary herbs and spices.

In 2007 the company posted P90 million in sales from its three main lines: roasted coffee and herbal teas (P45 million), dips and dressings (P20 million), and fresh produce (P25 million). This year GFI projects sales hitting P111 million from its gourmet coffee and teas (P60 million), bottled products under Kitchen Exclusives (P23 million), and fresh produce (P28 million).

(Rows of lovely lettuce at Gourmet Farms.)

According to Ronaldo Rizal Pablo, sales and marketing manager for GFI, “The majority of our coffee sales in 2008 will come from Cebu and the Visayas.” In the second quarter of the year, GFI already opened its office in Cebu and has begun making its way into the local supermarkets, such as the Gaisano chain.

About 50 percent of the annual company turnover comes from the sales of its produce and bottled products in premier supermarkets, said Pablo, while the rest comes from food services, which include major fast-food chains, premier restaurants and hotels, which the company supplies with customized coffee blends.

Escaler also disclosed that the company recently signed an agreement with the L’Opera Group of Italian restaurants, “which asked us to supply all their coffee requirements.”

He sees this as proof that there is a market for premium coffee blends created in the Philippines. “The Italians are the world’s coffee connoisseurs. Why should they pay P1,200 per kilo for an Italian coffee, when they can pay P700 per kilo for Philippine superior coffee?”

Escaler also encouraged more local restaurants to offer Philippine-produced coffee, rather than the foreign brands now flooding the market, to help boost farmers’ incomes. “You buy the Lavazza and Illy at P1,200 per kilo, you’re supporting the farmers in Colombia, in Brazil. You buy our coffee, you’re supporting our local economy. Pero itatapat ko, our premium coffee with Lavazza or Illy, we are better than them! Don’t forget they were roasted a year ago, eight months ago. Our coffee was roasted just days ago.”

While it doesn’t grow coffee on its own farm, the company sources 100 percent of its coffee beans from farmers in Benguet and Batangas. GFI also owns the largest coffee roaster in the Philippines, with the capacity to roast 60 tons of beans every day on an eight-hour shift, five times a week. Other coffee companies and food-service companies tap GFI to roast their beans.

(Len Reyes, GFI trading manager, shows off the largest coffee roaster in the country.)

While officials declined to reveal the company’s budget for capital expenditures this year, they said much of it will go into its expansion to Cebu and “developing new products.”

According to its web site, Gourmet Farms was incorporated in December 1987 as a wholly owned subsidiary of ECI Trading Corp. (ECITC), then a Philippine Board of Investments-registered exporter of Philippine green coffee beans. ECITC is the flagship of Ernest Escaler Group of Companies, and was once one of the top 1,000 corporations in the country.

In the 19th century, the Philippines was one of four top coffee-producing countries in the world. A blight in the 1890s wiped out local coffee crops, giving way to South American countries to enter and eventually dominate the world market. At its peak in 1986, Philippine coffee exports reached $186 million. The scrapping of world coffee quotas and the Philippines’ lifting of quantitative restrictions on foreign coffee in 2004 have led to low coffee prices in the country, thus discouraging local farmers from planting the crop.

According to the Bureau of Agricultural Statistics, ground coffee imports amounted to $63,283 (FOB) in 2006, while exports of the same amounted only to $37,676. Local coffee production dipped 1 percent to 104,000 metric in 2006.

(My text and photos were published in the BusinessMirror on May 22, 2008.)