Travel Bites: Oriental Mindoro - Beyond Puerto Galera

ORIENTAL Mindoro has got to be one of the most blessed provinces in the Philippines. It is rich in natural beauty with beaches so fair and fine, an abundance of marine resources, an incredible array of tropical flora and fauna, and gushing waterfalls that make their way through lush tropical rain forests that cover its mountains.

It sits at the center of the most diverse marine ecosystem in the world—the Verde Island Passage—where close to 3,000 species of marine life have been documented.

The most popular attraction in the province is, no doubt about it, the municipality of Puerto Galera, with its white-sand beaches (White Beach and Sabang Beach) and crystal-clear water. Aside from the beach, there are quite a few other attractions there as well, as in the capital city of Calapan and the municipality of Naujan that both boast of ecotourism and historical sites.

The White Beach (Photo from http://www.famousdestination.com/)

Oriental Mindoro is also home to the tamaraw, a water buffalo that is now on the endangered-species list, as well as the Mangyans, an indigenous tribe that supposedly hails from Indonesia, and has since settled in  the highlands of the province.

Must-see’s

Located in Barangay Bancurro in the municipality of Naujan, the Simbahang Bato (Bancuro Church Ruins), is what remains of a former Augustinian priory founded in the late 17th century. After several tries, marauding Moro pirates finally overran the place, wanting to steal the church’s bell supposedly made of gold, but not finding it, they burned the church to the ground in 1824. The church, which was made of stone and coral as was the fashion of the time, was never rebuilt, although a small chapel within was established in the 1960s.  Locals apparently fear the place due to the alleged hauntings by spirits and supernatural entities. Awoooo!

Have a picnic and watch the birds feed at the Naujan Lake Natural Park, a government-managed and protected wildlife area. The Naujan Lake is the fifth-largest freshwater lake in the Philippines and hosts a number of protected fish species and migratory birds. It has been categorized as an important wetland because of its rich biodiversity, although it is a struggle to keep its environs safe from poachers and population stress.

At 8,482 feet, Mount Halcon is only the 18th highest peak in the country. Let not those statistics fool you as most mountaineers still grade the mountain as a difficult climb due to its slippery slopes and single-track trails. Located in the  municipality of Baco, the mountain is also home to the Mangyans who revere it, and endangered plant species like the Mindoro Bleeding Heart and a stick insect endemic to the province.

The climber who makes it to the peak is rewarded with magnificent views of the entire Mindoro and surrounding islands and, on a clear day, even the summit of Mount  Mayon in Albay province in the Bicol Region. At present, Mount Halcon is closed to mountaineers.

Because it is mainly a coastal province, there are numerous beaches that can be found in Oriental Mindoro, apart from those found in Puerto Galera. In the capital of Calapan, for instance, most locals go to the Suqui Beach when they want to cool off and have a swim. It is just 15 minutes away from the town proper by tricycle.

Bancuro Church Ruins (Photo from http://mindoropost.wordpress.com/)

Bongol Beach, for another, is a 2-km stretch of gray-white sand in Bongol, Pinamalayan. It is a secluded beach as it is harder to reach than most beaches, but if it’s privacy you wish, this is the place to be. From Calapan, take an air-conditioned van to Pinamalayan, then a tricycle to the beach. (There is also Melco Beach in the municipality of Roxas.)

Puerto Galera itself, aside from its popular White Beach and Sabang Beach, also holds other interesting features such as the Tamaraw Falls. Located in Barangay Villaflor, the water pours from a height of 423 feet, dropping asymmetrically into a series of little falls over an outcropping of rocks and vegetation into a pool below. A small fee is collected from those who want to picnic in the area or take a dip in the pool. From Puerto Galera, take a Jeepney bound for Barangay Villaflor—Tamaraw Falls can be seen on the side of the road.

While White Beach and Sabang Beach are where the action is, ahem, Aninuan Beach (next door to White Beach) is the choice of people who want less of the crowds. The sand is grayish-white with some smooth round pebbles and stones on the shore but the waters here are immaculately clean.

Aside from hanging out by the beach and swimming, diving is also a popular recreation in Puerto Galera because of the vast marine resources around it. If you don’t know how to dive, you can check out the numerous dive centers along the beach such as South Sea Divers (http://www.southseadivers.com/), a pioneer in the area offering reasonable fees, or the Blue Ribbon Dive Resort (http://blueribbondivers.com/) with attractive dive packages.

One of the more exciting attractions in Puerto Galera is the annual Malasimbo Music and Arts Festival held outdoors in a grass terraced ampitheater at Mount Malasimbo (about 30 minutes away from White Beach) usually between February and March. Aside from local artists whose works are featured around the festival grounds, local and foreign music acts have played at Malasimbo, mesmerizing guests with their traditional music and sacred chants, jazz, pop and chill-out tunes. During the last festival from March 1 to 3, ethno-folk artists Bob Aves and Grace Nono, reggae legend Jimmy Cliff and soul siren Joss Stone performed before an estimated 4,000 participants. (UPDATE: This year, the festival featured Swedish folk/Latino singer/songwriter Jose Gonzalez, jazz group The Robert Glasper Experiment, our very own Mishka Adams, to name a few.)

Jose Gonzalez at the Malasimbo Music & Arts Festival held from Feb. 27 to March 3, 2014. (Photo from InterAksyon.com)

Dining options

When in Oriental Mindoro, one shouldn’t miss the suman sa lihiya with coco jam (steamed rice cake soaked in coconut milk and treated in lye) from Merl’s Native Delicacies (Ubas Street, Lalud, Calapan City, 043-286-7684/0916-356-6381 and 0922-847-3458). These tiny round cakes of sweetness make for a great and filling breakfast or merienda snack, as well as  a pasalubong treat for loved ones.

In Puerto Galera, one of the most popular restaurant’s is Hemingway’s Bistro (Sabang Beach, 043-287-3560/0920-2060-553) for its succulent steaks, fresh seafood and impeccable wine list. Though prices at the bistro may be on the high end, the dishes are worth every centavo. The staff are also amazingly helpful, with the kitchen eager to please diners with special requests.

Of course, what attracts many to Puerto Galera is not only the scuba diving and the white beaches, but the throbbing nightlife. Bars are aplenty here. For family-oriented and more wholesome partying, stick to the bars at the White Beach. For the rest of your wilder, baser needs, go to Sabang. Wherever you end up though, make sure you have a taste of the Mindoro sling—a rum and juice cocktail that reminds you of the refreshing outdoors of the province, with a punch of excitement.

Where to stay

In Calapan, stay at the Filipiniana Resort Hotel (http://www.filipinianacalapan.com/), which is strategically located, with a mall and banks nearby. The rooms are wide and clean, with an expansive swimming pool.

Out of the Blue Luxury Resort (http://www.outoftheblue.com.ph/), which overlooks the Small La Laguna Beach recently received the “Best Service” commendation among Tripadvisor’s members. Bookings are efficient, with the food quite hearty and excellent, and superb professional staff. It has spacious villas perfect for a barkada getaway or a family outing, and has two indoor pools that look out to stunning views.

Getting there

Most tourists going to Oriental Mindoro take the bus to the Batangas City Port such as JAM Liner (from Cubao or Buendia Avenue/ http://www.jam.com.ph), or the Tritran Bus Lines (2124 Taft Avenue, Pasay City/ 831-4700), but make sure the bus passes the Calabarzon Expressway for a shorter trip.

From the pier, take a ferry (e.g. SuperCat) or RO-RO either to Calapan, if that’s your end destination, or to Puerto Galera. At Terminal 3 in the Batangas pier, there are designated ferries that can take you to White Beach or Sabang Beach.

If going to Puerto Galera, you can also take the Sikat Bus/Ferry service (708-96-28) from the CityState Tower along Mabini Street in Ermita, Manila.

(This piece was originally published on April 22, 2013 in the BusinessMirror.)

Travel Bites: Blessed with beaches

(Last of two parts)

THE Philippines is blessed to have over 7,100 islands – depends if it’s high tide or low tide (smile) – which also means an unprecedented number of beaches as well.

There are beaches great for just bumming and sunning, some for swimming and snorkeling, and quite a few for surfing and skimboarding.

Continued from last week (See “Travel Bites: Summer fun in the country’s best beaches,” March 25, 2013), here are the rest of our choice beaches from all corners of the country.

6. Long Beach, San Vicente, Palawan

The long beach in San Vicente, Palawan boasts of soft white sand and shimmering crystal-clear waters. Unfortunately, there are still no hotels nor resorts by the beach. Maybe things will change when the San Vicente airport is finally completed. (Photo from http://www.beachresortphilippines.net)

This cream-colored beach in Brgy. New Agutaya is reputedly to be the longest in the country at 14 kilometers. (Whew! Imagine walking that stretch from end to end - Boracay’s four-kilometer-coastline is faltering enough for me!)

It is a must-see if you want totally deserted beaches. On a good day, which is the usual on this beach, you won’t bump into any other soul except the locals. There is nothing here except the beach and the calm waters so perfect for swimming, oh! and the towering coconut trees.

Accommodations are in the town proper – a good five-10 minutes away by local motorbikes, although I hear beachfront properties are selling briskly these days as investors await the completion of the San Vicente airport and scheduled flights by carriers.
There are other beaches and coves in San Vicente, some with even finer powdery sand similar to Boracay’s – here’s crossing our fingers the local government there will regulate the building of resorts in those beaches to protect the environment from overcommercialization.

Getting there: Take any commercial flight to Puerto Princesa, and ride a public bus or shuttle van from the bus terminal in San Jose to San Vicente. A habal-habal or a motorcycle used for passenger commute, can bring you to Long Beach. Just go down the main drop-off point and walk to the beach along a marked trail. Needless to say, bring your own provisions for food and water.

7. Dicasalarin Cove, Baler, Aurora

This is private beach owned by the Angara family but guests of their resorts are allowed to visit it. Those who are checked into other resorts only need to pay P300 per head at the Bahia de Baler to be able to stay at the beach for a day. (There are no accommodations onsite, just the beginnings of an artist’s village created by Sen. Edgardo Angara.)

Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountain range, Dicasalarin is also favored with rocky formations, and a river that carries fresh water out to sea. So if you’re not feeling the salty waters of the Pacific Ocean, you can also take a dip in the cool river delta instead.

The views here are stunning, with the lush foothills at your back, the Pacific blue in front, and the white sand squishing under your feet. Have a picnic at the shaded tables on the beach, down some cold beers, and enjoy the sun and surf. From October to February, waves at the cove reach heights that would delight even professional surfers.

Getting there: Unless you are bringing an SUV, most Baler locals don’t recommend a road trip as there is still a portion of unpaved road along the highway. Take a private coach instead via Genesis Transport’s 28-seat Joy Bus which has a restroom on board, snacks and water, an Wi-Fi connection. It also has the regular type airconditioned buses going to Baler (T#709-0803/421-1425). 

From Baler, hire a tricycle to take you to the river outlet adjacent to Sabang Beach (the main surfers’ area), then charter a pump boat to Dicasalarin (about 45 minutes). You can also rent a private van or car going there (30-minute ride).

Dicalasarin Cove is nestled amid lush hills and the Pacific Ocean. (Photo from Wikimedia Commons)

A tricycle can likewise take you directly to the foot of the hill where an abandoned Pag-asa weather station is located, and you can hike to the beach from there. It will be a tiring uphill climb even for most experienced hikers, before you get to the main trail going down towards the beach. But the sight is breathtaking which makes all the effort worthwhile.

8. Malapascua Island, northern Cebu

This is another island which has been catching the fancy of a number of foreign and local scuba divers because its deep waters are teeming with thresher sharks.But the island also has an immaculate white beach with crystal clear waters which allow you to see through to the bottom. This is another gem that has seen commercialization grow although at a slightly slower pace than other more well-known vacation islands. There are still spots of seclusion away from the maddening din of the disco or karaoke bar in the resort row.

Accommodations here attract the beach bums and divers alike and offer beachfront cottages that give you a full view of the sun gently peeking through the clouds as it rises from the horizon  (or a grand orange-filled sunset sky, depending on your resort’s location).

Getting there: Most major airlines have daily multiple flights to Cebu City from several major points in the country (e.g. Manila, Clark in Pampanga, Puerto Princesa, Iloilo, Davao, etc.). From the airport, take a cab to the Northern Bus Terminal (near SM) and book passage on a Ceres bus going to Maya port. From the port, you can hire a private or a public boat (which you share with other passengers) to Malapascua.

After a few days in Malapascua, you may also want to drop by Kota Beach, in Sta. Fe, Bantayan Island which is about 2.5 hours away by motorized banca. The white sand beach is a mixture of fine white and crushed coral.

There are hardly any people to bump into at the beach unless it’s Holy Week which attracts even the Cebuanos from the mainland. The waters are calm and limpid, turning to turquoise farther away from shore. Accommodations here are varied, fitting every budget. The sunrises here are uplifting and herald the beginning of great lazy days at the beach.

Instead of returning to Malapascua, you may want to stay a night or two on Bantayan then go back to Cebu City. From the Sta. Fe port, take the ordinary or fastcraft ferry to Hagnaya port then a bus back to Cebu City. (Some travelers do it the other way – go to Bantayan first, then to Malapascua, and back to Cebu City.)

9. Sugar Beach, Sipalay, Negros Occidental

Trust the Europeans to find the remotest and most serene beaches in the Philippines. They’ve staked their claim on Sugar Beach running resorts with basic amenities in the area, with their Filipina wives.

The beach sand is a coarse tan in appearance, much like raw sugar, which is probably why it’s named so. Sugar Beach receives but a handful of visitors which keeps it peaceful and tranquil. It’s quite a distance to travel to thus it attracts mostly Negrenses, European backpackers, and other hard-core beachgoers.

Most of the time, it will only be you and the coconut trees just soaking up the sun. Even during the peak of summer, the sea is just wide open with only a smattering of swimmers.The waters are pristine and teeming with fish such that it’s quite normal to see fisherfolk in the area hauling in their nets filled with the day’s catch.

Getting there: You can reach Sipalay by either public bus (Ceres) or private car/taxi from Bacolod City. By bus, the trip will take about five hours. By private car, the ride will take about three hours. If you have a reservation in any of the resorts, most will send a boat to pick you up from Sipalay. If not, just take a boat to Sugar Beach from Sipalay. (You can also reach Sipalay from Dumaguete, Negros Oriental but there will two bus transfers; so traveling from Bacolod is more convenient.)

All major airlines fly daily to Bacolod. (For more information, click on http://www.sipalaycity.gov.ph/)

10. Dahican Beach, Mati, Davao Oriental

Dahican Beach is the skimboarding and surfing central for the Davao region, a good three hours away from Davao City. (Photo by goofyazooo via Tripadvisor)

Dahican Beach has become a mecca for skimboarding and surfing in the Davao Region, as its stunning coastline receives swells up to 10 feet high from the Pacific Ocean.

It’s also a popular destination for swimmers because its cool powdery white sand stretches for seven kilometers along  the crescent-shaped coastline dotted by lofty coconut trees, and  into its clean and invigorating waters.

A portion of Mayo Bay whose directly waters feed the beach has been declared a marine sanctuary to protect the dolphins, sea cows, and sea turtles that reside or swim through the area. It’s common to see these sea creatures frolicking in the distance.

There are very few resorts along the Dahican coastline – most are located a kilometer or two away from the main beach. But there are simple cottages available for rent from the locals to store your beach gear or for picnics. It’s best to bring your own food and bottled water.

Getting there: Major airlines have daily flights to Davao City from Manila, Cebu, and Cagayan de Oro. Airconditioned and non-airconditioned buses regularly ply the route from Davao City to Mati – the trip will take almost five hours (or three to four hours by private vehicle.) From the city proper of Mati, Dahican Beach is only a tricycle ride away.

(For other information about Dahican and other places of interest in Mati, contact the City Tourism Office at +6387-3883-234, or via email: matitourismoffice@yahoo.com)

(This piece was originally published in the April 1, 2013 issue of the BusinessMirror. So tell me, what's your favorite beach in the Philippines?) 

Travel Bites: Summer fun in the country's best beaches

(First of two parts)

SUMMER is officially on!

And with that announce-ment from our friends over at Pag-asa, there will surely be massive beelines to the country’s beaches, for some fun in the sun.

I’ve always loved going to the beach since I was a child. I prefer it over the usual summer destinations like the cool climes of Baguio or Tagaytay. Just walking along the shore, with the sand scrunching in between my toes, or splashing in shimmering, turquoise waters that not only relaxes the body but also renews the spirit.

This list is by no means complete, considering the many unnamed islands and coves that are still being kept a secret from us by locals in those areas. The other beaches are just quite far, and in challenging locations. (Like I’d really want to recommend a gorgeous white beach in Basilan, but well, I might get you into trouble with your mother. But okay, just don’t tell her…it’s on Malamawi Island! Shhh.)

So consider this list as a mixed bag of the popular and the lesser-known beaches that are still accessible (as long as you have the patience), and are sure to provide massive enjoyment to you and your family and friends.

1. White Beach, Boracay Island

You can't argue with success - the white sand beach of Boracay is still the best in the world, according to top international publications and travel blogs. 

Of course the title of top beach in the country still goes to Boracay Island’s White  Beach. It has fine, white-powdery sand the consistency of confectioner’s sugar, and while the waters close to the shore are now usually bedeviled by seaweed, further out it is all clear where it’s still possible to see tiny fishies darting about underwater.

This time of year, the island will be pretty crowded, and with the bars cranking up the volume to entertain the drinking and dancing masses of humanity, it’s no wonder Boracay has come to be known as “party central” among beach-goers.

Aside from white beach, the island has some of the best homegrown restaurants and cafés offering all sorts of cuisine from around the world. Resorts range from the one-note cottage fanned by the breezes or a ceiling fan, to luxurious five-star enclaves with infinity pools, spas and professionally-run restaurants.

Getting there: All major carriers fly to Kalibo, the capital of Aklan, or to Caticlan, the main gateway to Boracay. From the Caticlan jetty port, take a 15-minute pump boat ride to the Cagban jetty port where vans and tricycles can take you to your resort of choice. (If you have reservations with a resort, they usually provide pick-ups and transfers either from Kalibo or Caticlan, and back.)

2. Botolan, Zambales

The sand is a fine gray, which can really get hot as the sun creeps toward noon. But toward the afternoon, it cools down and makes for a great beach-volleyball court.

The waters are also quite clear but at certain times of the year, the waves can get pretty rough with a strong undertow. There are a number of resorts to choose from but the better part of the beach is at Barangay Binoclutan.

Aside from the beach, there is a turtle hatchery operated by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and waterfalls nearby.

Also, you can have a picnic at a white beach in Potipot Island, which you can reach from Candelaria. There are no accommodations there; just basic amenities like a toilet and shower, and stations for grilling. The waters are clean and calm, which turns from a subtle mint green to a striking blue further from the shore. (There’s an entrance fee of P100 for the island’s maintenance.)

Getting there: Drive north along the North Luzon Expressway, enter the SCTEx and make your way through the Subic Bay free port, exiting at the Zambales National Highway. There are road signs pointing to Botolan and resorts in the area. Going to Candelaria, take the Zambales-Pangasinan Road from Botolan—it’s just 45 minutes away.

3. Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte

Though its white sand is not as fine as Boracay's, Pagudpud in Ilocos Norte still has its own charm.

Pagudpud is the northernmost municipality of Ilocos Norte, and straddles two beaches—Blue Lagoon, which was once a secluded area at Maira-ira Point—and Saud Beach, the more public beach.

While Saud Beach is the more popular area because there are more resorts and restaurants, there are portions where the rocks underwater are quite huge and can hurt your feet. The sand is an off-white variety with crunches under your feet, but is a joy to lie on and sunbathe away.

At Blue Lagoon, the waters are crystal-clear with more sandy areas, although good resorts are hard to come by. An added attraction is a zipline.

While Pagudpud is often called “Boracay of the North,” just scale down your expectations regarding its resorts and restaurants. Think Station 3 and you’ll be just fine.

Getting there: You can travel the 11 hours by land from Metro Manila to Pagudpud (via North Luzon Expressway, Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway going to Tarlac and Pangasinan, keeping to the MacArthur Highway until La Union, and on to the National Highway and through Manila North Road, turning to the Pan-Philippine Highway to Pagudpud),  but it would be better to stop over in Laoag, Ilocos Norte, to rest for a night.

Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific also fly from Manila to Laoag (one-hour flight). From there, you can rent a van or take a 90-minute bus ride to Pagudpud, then take a tricycle to your resort.

4. Bamboo beach, Nasugbu, Batangas

This is simply the best beach in Nasugbu, and one of the most accessible from Metro Manila. The sand is a creamy tan, and the waters have remained stunningly clear through the years. Being a cove, it is free from the runoff and garbage from Manila Bay that usually plagues many Batangas beaches, for the most part of the year anyway. During the monsoon season, the surfers and skim boarders come and ride the waves.

The beach used to be accessible only via fishers’ bancas from the Munting Buhangin beach (which sadly is no longer as clean as it was in the 1980s from what I hear), and visitors could swim at Bamboo Beach for a day then leave before dusk set in. (There were no accommodations save for a few with privately owned cottages.)

The beach is now part of an exclusive private development called Kawayan Cove, so it’s best to find someone who owns a home there. Okay, I know that part was probably a hiccup, but I trust in the six-degrees-of-separation theory; I’m sure you will find a friend who has a boss with a relative who owns a villa there.

Getting there: Drive down the Slex, take the Santa Rosa Exit, head toward Tagaytay and keep going until you reach the Nasugbu town proper. There are signs that will point you to Kawayan Cove.

5. Mahabang Buhangin Beach, Calaguas, Camarines Norte

Privacy and seclusion is what you get when you go to Calaguas Islands. A grand production to get there, but truly worth the trip especially when you get to the white beach. (Photo by www.calaguasislands.com)

It is one of the spectacular white beaches that remains under the radar of the typical urbanite beach- goer. It may be a major production to reach this place, but once you arrive in Mahabang Buhangin, you will likely forget how long you sat on the bus for the trip.

As the name implies, this is a stretch of pristine white sand that seems to go on forever, with a splendid shimmering sea of blue water that remains transparent even in chest-deep water.

There are no resorts on the island, so it’s best to take basic camping equipment such as tents, food and water, flashlights and extra batteries or an oil lamp (yes, there’s no electricity!), and cooking/eating utensils. There are a few tiny nipa huts as well for rent and a public toilet.

Mahabang Buhangin is a beach for those who want privacy, quiet and just endless hours of serene relaxation. This is as rustic as you can get and just think, this was exactly how Boracay was before commercialization set in. (Entrance fee is P75.)

Getting there: If you want to go on a road trip, you can drive from Manila to Daet (via Slex, take the Calamba Exit and onward to San Pablo City, Laguna, taking the Pan-Philippine Highway through Gumaca, Quezon, then to Daet), which takes about six to seven hours. From there, go to Paracale for another two hours then a tricyle ride to Barangay Palanas, where you can ask local fisherfolk for a boat ride to Mahabang Buhangin (about P2,500 to P3,000 for three to eight persons).

Or take a public bus from Pasay or Cubao to Daet, Camarines Norte, then hop on a public van to Paracale (about 10 to 11 hours total).

You can also take a direct flight from Manila to Naga City, Camarines Sur (45 minutes via PAL or Cebu Pacific), then from the Central Business District Terminal, ride an air-conditioned bus for two hours to Daet. 

(To be continued)

(This piece was originally published in the March 25, 2013 issue of the BusinessMirror. For more updated information on Calaguas Islands, click this.)

Travel Bites - Leyte: Witness to war and peace

LEYTE is rich in history and culture with a number of attractions both natural and man-made. 

It figured in the Pacific campaign during World War II as US Army Gen. Douglas MacArthur staged his historic return to the Philippines, anchored on his “I shall return” promise, at Red Beach in Palo, Leyte.

It is also the home province of the Romualdez family whose most famous member, Imelda Romualdez Marcos, became the first lady of the Philippines from 1965 until the Marcos family’s ouster in 1986.

Leyte boasts of a number of heritage destinations ranging from Spanish-era churches to ancestral homes.

Its attractions include also include white-sand beaches and an engineering marvel bridging the province and neighboring Samar.

MUST-SEE’s

The Leyte Landing Memorial at Red Beach (Barangay Candahug, Palo) is supposed to be the exact spot where Gen. Douglas MacArthur waded ashore with a landing party that included President Sergio Osmeña Jr. and Philippine diplomat Carlos P. Romulo, on October 20, 1944. (Photo by Wikimedia Commons)

Though it lacks the splendor of its years under the Marcos administration, the Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum (Real Street, in the capital city of Tacloban) continues to be popular among tourists (yes, despite the rather prohibitive P300 entrance fee!). Initially constructed as a resthouse for the Marcos family, it serves as a reminder of the wealth and luxury that had been enjoyed by the family, amid the immense poverty of the majority of the population.
The shrine-museum is a repository of the antique Chinese jars, paintings by celebrated local artists,  Italian art pieces, English and French period furniture, among others. It features a chapel on the ground floor with the Infant Child Jesus rendered in ivory as focal point, and 13 guest rooms representing the various regions of the country. On the second floor are the bedrooms and living area of the Marcos family. Used in the construction of this once-glorious palatial home were mostly local indigenous materials.
History buffs may also want to visit the iconic Leyte Landing Memorial at Red Beach (Barangay Candahug, Palo), supposed to be the exact spot where MacArthur waded ashore with a landing party that included President Sergio Osmeña Jr. and Philippine diplomat Carlos P. Romulo, on October 20, 1944. As commander of the Allied Forces in the Pacific during World War II, the American general fulfilled his promise to return to the Philippines, as the Allied Forces effectively defeated the Japanese occupiers.
Another historic site is Limasawa Island in southern Leyte, where Portugese explorer Ferdinand Magellan was said to have landed in 1521, and where the first Catholic Mass in Asia was first celebrated (Barangay Magallanes) one Easter.  Remnants of the first cross planted in the country are on a hill that can be reached by scaling 450 steps.
With its coral reefs still intact, the island’s waters teem with fishes, and from February to May, whale sharks are a common sight in the area.  (Take a public bus or passenger van from Tacloban or Ormoc to Padre Burgos Fort where a ferry takes you to Limasawa.)
Beachgoers should check out Kalanggaman Island in Palompon, with its two outstretched white sandbars where you can take a leisurely walk, or just lie down and sunbathe. There are no resorts on the island, so it’s advisable to take camping equipment if you want to stay a night or two. Swimming, kayaking and snorkeling are the popular activities in Kalanggaman. The island is protected and co-managed by the municipal office and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources so a P200-environmental fee is collected from guests. (Call the Palompon Tourism Office at 053-555-9010 or 0917-3037267/0916-9464612 for inquiries.)

The San Juanico Bridge is said to be the longest bridge in the Philippines over sea water. (Photo from http://commons.wikimedia.org)

The San Juanico Bridge, which connects Leyte with the province of Samar, is the longest bridge in the country over sea water, in this case, the San Juanico Strait. The main portion of the bridge is an arc-shaped truss. Traveling over the bridge offers magnificent views of the sparkling strait with a few islets in the distance.

Must-do’s

Heritage tour. With Spanish colonization and Christianization of the Philippines having started in Leyte, it’s no wonder it has a number of Spanish-era churches and schools, or at least what remains of these structures.
In the town of Baybay, American-style colonial homes still stand along Mabini Street (also called Heritage Street) and are still used as residences. Nearby is the Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, done in the usual Spanish earthquake baroque style, completed in 1870.
Another heritage site is the Our Lady of Assumption Parish Church in Tanauan, constructed in 1595 and is one of the oldest churches in the country. Then there are the ruins of a Jesuit seminary and a brick church in Dulag, a town which claims to be the actual site where MacArthur landed on his return to the Philippines. In the town of Carigara are ruins of another Jesuit Church built in the 16th century, now standing amid a plaza built in 1995, as well as an ancestral home supported with posts outside, thus called Balay nga Gawas It Harigi.
In Hilongos are remnants of an old fort and Spanish-era church—in Leyte, most of the churches had fortresses built around them to protect them from marauding Moro pirates. The remaining portions of the old church now form part of the structure of the present-day Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church.
Jazz and foodie haven. Who would’ve thought that in this far-away province, jazz music would be much appreciated by local folk? At Julio’s Buffet and Jazz Joint (T# 053-325-8808) along P. Paterno Street in Tacloban, jazz musicians like Awit awardee Noli Aurillo play acoustic guitar there regularly.
Ocho Seafood and Grill (Senator Enage Street, T# 053-325-4171 or 523-3220) serves its food dampa-style. Freshly caught seafood are displayed and all diners have to do is point to what they want and have the seafood cooked in their preferred manner. Popular among diners as well are the oyster adobo and crispy salmon skin.
Local delicacies that should be tried or brought home as pasalubong are the binagol, made from a gabi-like root crop, coconut milk and sugar and steamed inside a coconut shell (bagol), and the moron, which is a suman (glutinous rice cake wrapped in palm leaves) made from cocoa or tablea, thus its chocolatey taste. You can buy these at any of the public markets.
The lechon (roasted pig) is also a popular dish in Leyte, which is dipped in garlic and vinegar, instead of liver sauce. Try it at Timo Romano Lechon in Barangay 60, Sagkahan, along Real Street in Tacloban (053-325-5929).

The Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum is a repository of antique Chinese jars, paintings by celebrated local artists, Italian art pieces, English and French period furniture, among others. (Photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Where to stay: The Oriental Hotel Leyte in Palo, just adjacent to Tacloban is one of the newer hotels in Leyte. It has an infinity pool with a view of the sea, and is just a skip away from the Leyte Landing Memorial. Rooms are spacious and clean, with courteous staff, although the dining options are limited.  (Click http://leyte.theorientalhotels.com for reservations.)
The Go Hotel in Tacloban is a good bet for budget travelers. It has a great location as it is adjacent to a mall. The rooms are really small, but have comfortable beds and a really strong shower. (For reservations, click http://www.gohotels.ph/tacloban).
Getting there: PAL Express and Cebu Pacific fly to Tacloban from Manila and Cebu, while Zest Airways and Seair fly from Manila. Check the carriers’ respective web sites for schedules.

(This piece was originally published in the March 18, 2013 issue of the BusinessMirror. Since then, a massive typhoon struck Leyte on Nov. 8, 2013 . The capital of Tacloban, specifically, is still in a state of rehabilitation, so many of the establishments mentioned above may still be closed or undergoing repair. Before visiting Leyte, please call the phone nos. provided above or better yet, check with the Department of Tourism, Region 8 at 053-325-5279 / 321-2048 or email: dotreg8@yahoo.com / tiopeskrs@yahoo.com / dottacloban@yahoo.com. Bangon Leyte!)

Travel Bites: One of the world’s best beaches, at your doorstep

The sun begins to set in Boracay, voted as the World’s Best Island in 2012 by readers of the prestigious Travel+Leisure magazine. 

BORACAY Island in the province of Aklan consistently rates as one of the best beach destinations in the world. 

Last year, tourist arrivals were expected to have reached 1.2 million despite the unofficial ban on Chinese group travels. South Koreans continue to account for the largest group of foreign tourists in the island paradise, but the bulk of visitors are still domestic tourists. 

So I find it incredulous when I meet, as I have over the last couple of years, new friends or acquaintances who have yet to swim in the island’s cool clear waters, or wiggle their toes in its powder-white sand. I’ve always thought that if one must travel outside one’s provenance for leisure for the first time, Boracay has got to be one’s first destination, or at least on the top list of go-to places in the country. 

And with the stiff competition among local carriers driving down airfare, one no longer needs to spend a humongous amount of funds just to fly to Boracay, and enjoy the many pleasures it offers. 

There is also an overwhelming number of choices of accommodations for every type of tourist—from the seriously bare one-note cottage that attracts the backpacking set (usually at Station 3), to the high-end-$1,000++ a-night villas that exude luxury for the pampered leisure traveler (Station 1). 

And if you have a phobia of crowds, this is absolutely the best time of year to go to Boracay. The air is chilly especially in the morning, and while the sun is usually out, the heat is quite tolerable. 

Must-see’s 

The beaches. While the 4.5-km stretch of white beach is the main attraction of Boracay, and is the central area where revelers sunbathe and hang out before taking a swim, there are other beaches on the island that are worth a look-see. 

Yapak Beach, commonly called Puka Shell Beach, is located on the northern tip of the island and accessible by motorized bancas or pump boats. The beach is literally littered with the bead-like cone snail shells that are usually made into necklaces and bracelets. (Puka shell jewelry became popular in the 1970s when actress Elizabeth Taylor started wearing her pieces made in Hawaii.) 

The main white beach of Boracay is famous the world over as one of the best beaches in the world. 

Bulabog Beach is every windsurfer or kiteboarder’s paradise, with strong winds from January to June encouraging amateur and professional competitions among locals and visitors. From the main white beach, one can reach Bulabog by crossing to the opposite side of the island via several pathways. 

For amateur spelunkers and wildlife enthusiasts, Ilig-Iligan Beach is a good place to explore caves and see fruit bats hanging from trees. Located on the east coast of Boracay, the beach is accessible by motorbikes or on foot although the hike will probably take about 30 minutes or longer, depending on one’s pace. It is also a favorite among snorkelers. 

The mountain. To further appreciate the beauty of Boracay, one can rent an ATV or motorbike and drive to the top of Mount Luho. It is the highest point on the island and will reward the hardy trekker with stunning views of the island and the surrounding sea. There is a viewdeck, a mini-zoo, as well as zipline that will please both the animal lover and the thrillseekers. There is an entrance fee of P60. 

The mall. Or D’Mall as it is called on the island. This is ground zero for the enthusiastic shopper. Here there are a hundreds of sarong (the tie-died and batik varieties) to choose from, as well as the gamut of native handmade jewelry, bathing suits, souvenir T-shirts, even furniture and home accessories. The spot is also famous for bars and restaurants offering a variety of international and local cuisine although the entire white beach is riddled with numerous restaurant and café choices to please even the most discriminating of palates. 

To-do’s 

Ride the waves. One of the newest activities on the island is Wavepool Surfing. The pools are at Crown Regency Resort with the Philippine Surfing Academy conducting basic surfing lessons in a safe environment. (You attend a class first where you are taught how to handle and balance on a surfboard on land, before you are actually set free on the wave pools.) While the activity is in a controlled environment, one cannot underestimate the thrill and rush of popping on the surfboard and riding the waves. If you fall, just get back on your board and skim the waves again. (Call PSA at 631-2805 or 0917-894-6767 or e-mail philippinesurfingacademy@gmail.com. Web site: www.philippinesurfingacademy.com.) 

Like pretty mermaids, all in a row. (Photo from Sailorgil.tumbler.com)

Swim like a mermaid. Indulge your fantasy and get a workout as well—mermaid swimming offers tourists a fun way of keeping fit. Two-hour swimming lessons are conducted at Ti Braz restaurant between Stations 1 and 2, and yes, you do get to slip into a mermaid tail. Basic swimming skills are required. The classes are run by the Philippine Mermaid Swimming Academy, composed of expert swimmers and divers. Mermaid fitness workouts will soon be offered. (For bookings, check out https://www.facebook.com/PhilippineMermaidSwimmingAcademy/info). 

Party during the full moon. The newest place to party or chill to the island vibe is at Area 51, located at a secluded spot in the southernmost tip of Bulabog Beach. Set up by the former owners of Hey Jude!, Area 51 hosts new moon and full moon parties where patrons can just let loose and dance to the trendy sounds of resident DJs Manster and Reo. (For reservations, call Jude at 0917-3274824 or Karen at 0917-7161626, or click www.facebook.com/area51boracay.) 

Gorge on seafood. Name it, Boracay has it. Whether you are hankering for lobsters or oysters, mud crabs or sweet shrimps, prawns as well as a variety of reef fishes, D’Talipapa assures that your favorite seafood is available at the most reasonable price. 

After buying your seafood, take them to any of the nearby eateries and for a minimal charge, have them cooked any which way you want, and enjoy a tropical feast. 

Though seafood is top of mind in beach destinations, Boracay is also home to some of the best international cuisines offering meat-based dishes and fabulous desserts. Some choice restaurants and cafés include Caruso (Italian) at The District along Station 2, Kasbah (Moroccan) at Station 1, Lemoni Café at D’Mall for the best lemon tart. 

Where to stay

Seafoods are aplenty at D'Talipapa. You can buy them and have them cooked at the nearby restaurants, or in this case, order them at Sun Villa.

Sun Villa Resort & Spa (back of D’Talipapa, Station 2) is one of the island’s little known secrets for bang for the buck spa treatments. The resort is a haven of calm and tranquility. Sleep all day, dine on lovingly prepared home-cooked meals upon waking, then just laze about in the pool area with the iPod playing away while you leaf through a book or magazine. (For reservations, call 036-288-5541, 036-288-4410, or 036-288-1306. For more details, check out its web page at www.facebook.com/sunspaboracay.) 

For luxurious accommodations and professional caring staff, Discovery Shores Boracay (Station 1) is the obvious choice. The rooms are spacious with an oh-so-relaxing bed that immediately lulls one to sleep. But what is really endearing about Discovery Shores is its friendly, courteous and efficient staff ever ready with a smile for guests and a warm greeting to perk up one’s day. Everyone speaks English fluently and will answer with their de riguer “Certainly!” when asked to perform a chore, or when responding to a request. Its mojitos are also the best on the island. (For more details, click http://www.discoveryshoresboracay.com/discoveryshores/) 

(Travel Bites is published every Monday on the front page of the BusinessMirror. This piece was published on Jan. 7, 2013. All photo copyrights owned by this blogger, except for the mermaid photo.)