Travel Bites: Batanes bliss

The resplendent view of the unusually calm sea from Radar Tukon, a lighthouse in Basco, Batanes.

The first time I went to Basco, on the main island of Batan in Batanes, none of the major cell-phone providers had reached it yet. And so, for four days, with my cell phone switched off, my friends and I were able to enjoy the quietude of this northernmost province of the Philippines. (Since that vacation, I haven’t switched on the SMS ringtone for my cell phone ever again.) 

The weather in Batanes is usually cool and breezy even during the summer months. And the air is so pure and clean, the joke is when Manila folk go to Batanes and breathe it in, they will likely suffer a choking fit—what with our lungs being so used to pollution in Metro Manila. 

The capital of Basco is where most of the population congregate, but it is hardly crowded. So cars are still few and far between. The common modes of transportation are tricycles and jeepneys. 

Walk around the neat and narrow streets, or take a bicycle or motorbike and drive around the paved national highway to the coastal areas and rolling hills. Every site will usually make one pause and give a silent prayer of thanks to the artist who painted the beautiful scenery before him. 

There are steep cliff drops into swirling wisps of crisp white water. Also, wide open spaces with lush greenery eventually invite comparisons to Scotland. Scattered around the main town, as well as the nearby Sabtang Island, are old churches swathed in colors, and dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. 

What’s more, the people are gentle, honest folk who seem shy at first, but are eager to talk with and accommodate the needs of visitors from the mainland. 

It may be a bit expensive to fly there, but believe me when I say that it’s all worth it. For how can anyone put a price on bliss? 

Must-see's

The hills are alive. One of the most popular sites in Basco, the capital of Batanes, is “Marlboro Country,” so-called because it is grass-covered hill with horses and cows pausing to feed, you have a feeling the hot Marlboro Man with his trademark cowboy outfit, astride his dark horse, is about to ride up to you and offer you a pack of smokes. 

In the Ivatan dialect, it is called Racuh a Payaman, and from here, tourists can either gaze at the coastline with the strong waves crashing on the shore, more grassy, rolling hills and a lighthouse in the distance. It’s a great place for tourists to take photos of each other making those wacky jump shots aka “jumpologies” that have become such a fad. 

SONGSONG RUINS. In the 1950s, a hugal tidal wave wiped out this entire village leaving only the frames of the stone houses standing.

Church pilgrimage. There are Spanish-era churches here mostly built in the espadaña-style, with façades using bell gables (espadaña) instead of a full bell tower, as these were less expensive to construct. Among these are the Basco Cathedral (Santo Domingo de Basco) first put up in 1787, the Mahatao Church (San Carlos Borromeo Church) founded in 1789 and considered by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts as a “national cultural treasure,” and the San Vicente Ferrer Church on Sabtang Island (1844). 

On the other hand, the San Jose de Ivana Church founded in 1755 has a separate bell tower to its right. Climb it and you can look out into the savage sea and catch a glimpse of Sabtang Island. (The other inhabited island is called Itbayat.) 

Ivatan lodging. If you can take a seasickness-inducing ride from the port of Ivana using the falowa (outrigger-less banca) to Sabtang, drop by Savidug, a village of traditional Ivatan houses constructed from limestone, coral and cogon grass. 

As your grade-school teacher probably told you, the houses in Batanes use such materials and are built low to withstand the raging typhoons that regularly visit the province. 

Tsunami’s wrath. Sometime in the 1950s, a humongous tidal wave wiped out an entire village in what is now known as Barangay Uyugan. All that is left today of the village—the so-called Songsong Ruins—are the frames of the stone houses that once stood there. Yes, it can be quite eerie walking through the ghost town, so say a silent prayer to calm the restless spirits that may still inhabit the area. (Awoooo!) 

To-do's

Hike up the volcano. Those into mountain climbing can hike and trek up Mount Iraya, an active volcano on Batan Island. Located near the Basco Airport, the volcano’s summit is usually enveloped in clouds—an indication that someone has passed away, according to local folklore—so climbers are advised to do their hikes in September when the Indian summer rolls around. 

Have a picnic and get a tan. While in Sabtang, drive down to the Nakabuan beach with its white sand and interesting geological formations. Most tour packages to Batanes (if you choose to include a trip to Sabtang) can provide lunch picnics to the beach with Ivatan dishes like the turmeric-enriched yellow rice, coconut crabs (a local delicacy), lobsters and pork adobo with veggies—all served usually with seaweed soup. (Check out http://www.batanestravelandtours.com for hotel-tour-meal packages.) 

Watch the sunset. One of the best places to view the sun set amid a panoramic setting of the rampaging sea is the lighthouse on Naidi Hills in Basco. Climb the lighthouse for a better view, or take photos from the ground as the sky turns pink, then a deep midnight blue as dusk finally sets in. 

Beside the lighthouse is a row of bunkers one of which has been turned into a restaurant called Bunker Café. With its flaming red interiors and fake stone fireplace, the café offers a limited choice of Ivatan dishes. But it’s still a pleasant venue for dinner, even more so if you dine outside—that is, if the winds haven’t been whipped to a frenzy yet. 

Get coffee. Honesty Café (Radiwan, Ivana), has become the most iconic example of how Ivatans are simple, trustworthy folk, that they treat visitors there similarly. The store is usually unattended, but you can buy souvenir T-shirts here, get a cup of coffee and some biscuits, or drink bottled water. You go to a counter and just pay for the items by dropping your money in a wooden box with a slit. The only operating principle here is, as its name implies, honesty and it is a refreshing dose, in a world of malice and untruthfulness. 

Cottages at the government-run Batanes Resort are built to resemble the Ivatan houses. From its rooms, one can get a glimpse of the rampaging sea. 

Where to stay: Batanes Resort is a 10-minute ride from the capital, and sits on a hill overlooking the sea. The beach at the back is a bit wild and rocky, but quite photographic. (I really can’t think of any place in Batanes which doesn’t yield well to the camera.) 

Its cottages are built to resemble the Ivatan stone houses. The establishment is clean and inexpensive, with basic amenities, such as hot and cold water. They also serve local Ivatan cuisine; this is where I got my first taste of crispy fried flying fish—delish! (For inquiries and reservations, call 927-2393, 0927-5829078.) 

Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge, was the home of the late great tapestry artist Pacita Abad, and, as such, has been uniquely designed with her own touches, as well as furniture by her brother, the current Budget Secretary Butch Abad. The lodge also houses the works of young Ivatan artists as well as art pieces by reputable Filipino artists like BenCab and Araceli Dans. 

A stay here can set you back by P7,000+ a night, but the lodge is professionally run, providing the most comfortable luxe accommodations on the island.(Click http://www.fundacionpacita.ph for inquiries and reservations.) 

Getting there. The newly-formed Skyjet Air will be launching its thrice-weekly Manila-Basco flights on December 14. (For bookings, call 823-3087/635-4810 or see http://skyjetair.com/). 

Skypasada offers trips from Tuguegarao-Basco or Itbayat. Manila-based passengers can fly to Tuguegarao via its partner Airphil Express—which then feeds into the Skypasada route to Basco, four times a week. (For particulars, call 912-3333 or click on http://www.skypasada.com) 

Seair-International will be launching its Manila-Basco flights on December 7 but is yet to announce its hotline numbers. In the meantime, keep checking your newspapers for announcements.

(Travel Bites is published every Monday on the front page of the BusinessMirror. This Batanes feature was published on Dec. 3, 2012. Photos copyright owned by the author.)

‘Boutique airline’ takes wing, offers frills at affordable fares

Skyjet's 94-seater BAe 146-200 takes off from the runway of Basco Airport. 

A NEW airline is taking wing to serve premium tourist destinations in the country by offering passengers the full service of a legacy carrier at affordable fares.

Magnum Air (Skyjet) Airlines is launching its first scheduled service by flying to Basco, Batanes, on December 14, just a month after the Civil Aviation Authority of the Philippines (Caap) granted the carrier its airline operator certificate (AOC).

In an exclusive interview, Dr. Joel Mendoza, Skyjet president and CEO, said the airline’s flights to Basco will initially be three times a week—Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The flight will take only 70 minutes on the carrier’s jet plane, a British Aerospace System (BAe) 146-200, which can carry 94 passengers and 3 tons of cargo.

Skyjet will also be flying from Manila to Busuanga in Palawan (four times a week), beginning February 15, 2013; to Caticlan, the gateway to Boracay Island, in March 2013; and is considering to fly to Surigao City, Surigao del Norte, a jumpoff point to the country’s surfing capital of Siargao.

It is also mulling to fly next year to Virac, Catanduanes, and Catarman, Northern Samar. While not considered premium tourism destinations, Mendoza said these destinations are currently underserved by air services, despite the huge demand for travel there. “We are a boutique airline,” Mendoza explained.

Dentist-turned-airline operator Dr. Joel Mendoza.

“We are small but what we offer is the full service usually found in legacy carriers, like snacks, comfortable upholstered seats, quality passenger reservations and check-in systems, etc. We are not low-cost, but we are affordable. We’re bringing back the frills in flying.”

A one-way fare to Basco will cost about P6,000 per person, “but we will be offering promo fares during the lean season,” according to the Skyjet CEO. He said that Batanes residents will also get “special Ivatan fares.” October to June is usually the peak season for travel to Batanes.

Skyjet’s fleet consists of two BAe 146-200 jets, the same planes used by the British royal family, British Airways, Lufthansa AG and a number of other European airlines.

“We give premium to safety, comfort and convenience,” Mendoza said. He added that the BAe 146-200 is the only plane that has been certified to take off from and land at the Basco airport, which has a steep runway slope of 4.5 degrees, owing to Batanes’s general rolling terrain.

Most commercial airplanes are certified to take off from and land at airports with a maximum runway slope of only 2 degrees, or runways which are almost flat. If a plane will have to operate in an airport with a runway slope of more than 2 degrees, the aircraft manufacturer’s engineers need to meticulously test the plane in that runway using its own pilots, before certifying that the plane can safely operate there.

In the case of Skyjet, BAe engineers wrote a new aircraft operating manual instructing pilots on the procedures to take off and land specifically in Basco. The Caap thereafter approved this after conducting a “proving flight.”

“The BAe 146-200 is specifically made for short landings and takeoffs. It specializes in [operating in] unpaved runways so we can assure passengers of ease in landing even in smaller airports,” Mendoza said.

All Skyjet’s pilots are Filipinos who have clocked in 10,000+ of hours specifically on BAe146 Series planes, he added. These veteran pilots flew for City Jet, Lufthansa and other airlines. “This increases the safety and reliability of Skyjet’s flight operations,” Mendoza said.

According to Skyjet’s certificate of public convenience and necessity granted by the Civil Aeronautics Board, the carrier is allowed to operate charter services for domestic and international routes, regular scheduled service for domestic destinations and cargo services.

A dentist by profession, Mendoza is also a director of the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency, which has been selling travel packages to Batanes since 2007. “I just want to promote Batanes as a cultural tourism destination that will help create more jobs for the Ivatans. Having a direct air transport service to Batanes will also allow the locals to visit Manila,” he said.

Capitalized at P50 million, Skyjet has been registered with the Securities and Exchange Commission since September 2005. Its chairman is Telesforo Castillejos, former governor of Batanes, while its director of flight operations is Capt. Antonio Buendia, a veteran commercial pilot and former president of Philippine Aerospace Development Corp.

(This piece originally published in the front page of the BusinessMirror, Dec. 6, 2012. Photos courtesy Dr. Joel Mendoza)

Seair International cleared for takeoff

MANILA, Philippines – The Civil Aviation Authority of the Philippines (CAAP) has finally given Seair International (Seair-I) the green light for its flight operations beginning this month. 

The company’s Vice Chairman Nikos Gitsis said in an interview Seair-I is launching its maiden flight from Manila to Basco, Batanes on December 7. 

“The plan is, we will fly Fridays and Mondays and we will go from there. It could become three times a week,” he said. The carrier will use a 32-seater Dornier 328 turboprop for this service. 

He said the carrier will also offer a “VIP charter service early next year for domestic and international routes” using a seven-seater Falcon 10 jet. 

“[Apart from the scheduled Basco flights] we will focus on charters for the time being, and we will explore and open up new destinations,” Gitsis added (Read the rest at InterAksyon.com. This piece was originally published on Dec. 2, 2012.)

My favorite destinations in the Philippines

THE cool, powdery-white sands of Boracay.

The massive limestone cliffs in El Nido.

The clear, blue waters of Cebu.

The lush, rolling hills of Batanes.

The almost-perfect cone of majestic Mayon Volcano.

These are just some of the awe-inspiring sites to behold when traveling around the Philippines.

I’ve been fortunate to have traveled to quite a number of lovely places in the country primarily because of my profession, and due to a brief stint in the government in the early '90s, accompanying three successive Cabinet secretaries who frequently monitored their agency’s provincial projects.

Nothing compares to the beauty of the Philippines, simply because it offers a myriad of choices to travelers of all persuasions and budgets. And whether you’re a fellow Filipino or a foreigner, one can be sure of friendly locals at these tourist destinations, eager to help and ensure you have a great time.

Here are some of my favorite places in the country:

Albay
Mayon Volcano as seen from the Cagsawa Ruins.
THE still-active Mayon Volcano is one of the most moving and powerful sights I’ve ever been fortunate to behold in my life. Its near-perfect cone is simply breathtaking.

Aside from trekking to the volcano, you can also take an all-terrain vehicle straight up to the lava front. Other sites to visit are the Our Lady of the Gate Parish Church in Daraga that was built in the 18th century, the Cagsawa Ruins, Busay Falls, and Liñgon Hills where an underground tunnel built by the Japanese forces can be found.

Of course, the best part about visiting Albay is eating spicy Bicolano dishes, such as Bicol Express, a variety of meats and fishes cooked with coconut milk, and my favorite dried fish called New Look.

Where to stay: Hotel Venezia (www.hotelvenezia.com.ph) if you’re staying in Legazpi City and want comfortable, clean and value-for-money accommodations. For a luxury feel, check out Misibis Bay Resort in Cagraray Island (www.misibisbay.com).

Batanes
A traditional Ivatan stone house in Basco, Batanes.
SOME foreigners have compared Batanes to Scotland because of its wide-open spaces, lush greenery and deep-plunging cliffs.

Take a trip to “Marlboro Country”—a rolling hill with horses and cows roaming around or feeding on the grass. Visit colorful old churches, such as the Basco Cathedral built in 1783, the Mahatao Church (1787), San Jose Church (1814), etc. And if you can take a seasickness-inducing boat ride to Sabtang (one of three major inhabited islands of Batanes), drop by Savidug, a village of traditional limestone houses still used by the locals (or Ivatans).

Where to stay: Batanes Resort is a 10-minute ride from the capital, and sits on a hill overlooking the sea. Built to resemble the Ivatan houses, the establishment is clean and inexpensive, with basic amenities, such as hot and cold water. They also serve local Ivatan cuisine where I got my first taste of fried flying fish—delish! (For inquiries and reservations, call 927-2393, 0927-5829078.)

Bohol
The tarsier is one of the more popular tourist attractions in Bohol. (Photo by www.nocturnal-animals.com/.)

ASIDE from the world-famous Chocolate Hills, the must-see places in Bohol are the 18th-century churches, such as the baroque-inspired Baclayon Church and Loboc Church, which has an extensive collection of images of various and other religious paraphernalia.

Have a hearty lunch of Boholano dishes while cruising down Loboc River, then visit the smallest primate in the world, the tarsier, in several of the minizoos located along the river.

Other activities include swimming on Alona beach, scuba-diving on Balicasag Island, and dolphin-watching on Pamilican Island.

I was recently told that my favorite resort no longer offers the best customer experience so better click www.bohol.ph/resorts.php for a list of accommodations.

Boracay Island, Aklan
Boracay - the all-time best beach in the country and one of the most popular in the world.

NO doubt the long stretch of white-sand beach and its clear turquoise waters are still the major reasons people continue to flock to Boracay.

Aside from the usual island tours, spa massages, food tripping and bar hopping, and banana-boat rides, there is an amazing number of fun activities that can also be pursued. There’s rolling down a hill in a zorb (www.facebook.com/zorbboracay), feeding the fish while helmet diving, and para-sailing, to name a few.

Visitors have a choice of resorts featuring the barest minimum amenities to the most luxurious, while foodies will surely enjoy an array of local and international cuisine cooked with the most authentic ingredients.

Where to stay: Discovery Shores in Station 1, if you want the best luxury accommodations with the friendliest staff to boot (www.discoveryshoresboracay.com); and Sun Villa in Station 2, for a quiet escape, the best value spa, and home-cooked cuisine (www.boracaysunresorts.com.ph/villa.htm).

Cebu
Visit the Taoist Temple in Cebu City, and make your petitions to the gods.

I HAVE loved Cebu since I started going there in the 1980s. One can be sure of warm, friendly smiles, an inexpensive but belly-busting meal, and just great entertainment because after all, isn’t this the land of country’s best singers? And, of course, the tasty, herb-filled Cebu lechon is simply one of the best-tasting in the country.

Some of the most interesting sites are the Shrine of Magellan’s Cross which was planted by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s men upon his arrival in Cebu in 1521; the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño where the oldest image of the Christ Child is enshrined; and the Taoist Temple, which is guarded by fierce dragons and where the local Chinese go to pray and seek favors from ancestors and ancient gods.

Also take a trip to Carcar, which is less than an hour drive from the city, which is famous for its chicharon, leather sandals, Spanish-era and American-period houses, and the historic St. Catherine’s Church, which is the second-oldest church in Cebu, after the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño.

Where to stay: BE Resort in Mactan for its hip, cool interiors, beach and tasty restaurant dishes (www.beresorts.com); Islands Stay Hotel in Cebu City for a value-chic stay (www.islandsstay.com) accessible to major malls, offices and tourist sites in the city.

Davao
Dr. Bo Puentespina's 'bird talk' at the Malagos Garden Resort's interactive bird show. (Photo courtesy Malagos Garden Resort.)

DAVAO’S marketing slogan “From islands to highlands” says it all.

You will need boundless energy and at least a week to enjoy all the pleasurable offerings of this region.

Climb Mount Apo and catch the sun breaking through the clouds; visit the mighty but endangered Philippine eagle at the Philippine Eagle Center; watch an entertaining interactive bird show at the Malagos Garden Resort; see the creepy bat cave on Samal island; or go ziplining in what is reputed to be Asia’s longest, which is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

Eating durian can be a challenge to first-time visitors—it tastes like heaven but smells like hell, goes a local saying—so if the smell is off-putting, you can try its other variants like candies, coffee (at the homegrown Blu Gre café), or ice cream (Donnabelle brand). Other than durian, pomelo and mangosteen are also plentiful and readily available in the market, supermarkets, and roadside fruit stands.

One of the remarkable food finds in Davao is the artisanal goat cheeses under the brand of Malagos Farms which are comparable in texture and taste to the foreign brands.

Where to stay: Marco Polo Hotel (www.marcopolohotels.com) is still the finest hotel in the city with its large comfortable rooms, and possibly the best Chinese restaurant in the area.

Palawan
Massive limestone cliffs dot the clear torquoise waters of El Nido, Palawan. (Photo from www.e-philippines.com.ph.)

ONE of my most memorable trips has got to be in El Nido, in northern Palawan.

Take a pump-boat ride and marvel at the colossal limestone cliffs or swim in the clean waters of Bacuit Bay where you can see schools of colorful fishes and other marine life. Or why not stop by a sandbar and enjoy the cold powder-fine, white sand under your feet?

Where to stay: Miniloc Island Resort (www.elnidoresorts.com) is in itself a tourist attraction, with its lush surroundings and water cottages built on stilts.

A must-see in Palawan is the Puerto Princesa Underground River, which has been gaining a massive amount of publicity since it was named one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. The main attraction is the St. Paul’s underground cave where stalactites and stalagmites have formed over the years.

Where to stay: Hotel Fleuris in Puerto Princesa (www.fleuris.com) loves hosting groups—whether families or friends, so make sure you avail yourself of its barkada package.

By no means is this list complete. There are so many other gorgeous places to visit in the Philippines, and where travelers are assured of warm smiles and fun times.

(This piece was originally published in the BusinessMirror, Feb. 26, 2012. All photos by this blogger, unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.)

Dare to unplug (after you read my blog!)

WAS trying to do my work when I stumbled onto this news story about people who have decided to switch off their electronic devices for a day.

LOS ANGELES (Reuters) - Sharon Sarmiento knew it was time to unplug when she realized she was blogging in her dreams and hearing imaginary instant messages.

For Ariel Meadow Stallings, it was the hours lost while surfing the Internet that left her feeling like she had been in a drunken blackout.

Both women are part of a new grass-roots movement in which tech geeks, Internet addicts, Blackberry thumbers and compulsive IMers are deciding to wrest back control of their lives by daring to switch off -- if only for a day.

One of the most peaceful vacations I've had was in Batanes about four years ago where there was no cellphone service. So all our phones were switched off, leaving us with a few days to enjoy the province, its vistas, and its people. (But then someone temporarily went nuts trying to look for our pregnant masahista...haha.)

Since that vacation, however, I've muted the ring tone to all my messages. I find that I'm not as attached to it as I was before that Batanes vacation when every time my phone buzzed, I would immediately look at it and answer incoming texts. It just frazzled my nerves especially then, when I was still editing the Business Section of a broadsheet everyday.

At night I also switch off all my phones for an uninterrupted night's sleep. One friend asked me what if there's an emergency? I said if it's really a life and death thing, I can always be contacted on my landline.

Thing is on vacations, I can't switch off my cellphone. There was one vacation last year in Cebu I ended up surfing the Internet on my cellphone just to check out the news in Manila. It was crazy.

Since I've started working at home though, I realize that I'm online as soon as I wake up, and way past 2 am the next morning. Though I take breaks (like for meals and wee-wee), I sometimes don't switch off as I wait for important emails to come in. Not only is that increasing my electricity bill, but it's also making me too dependent on my computer and the Internet. So what I do is basically switch off on Sundays. Of course, then I veg out on the couch and watch TV all day. So I dunno if that counts as "switching off."

Anyway, this Sunday, I shall unplug everything — the cellphones, the computer, server, wifi router and maybe the TV too — the entire day. Who knows, I might take up reading a book again.