Travel Bites: Summer fun in the country's best beaches

(First of two parts)

SUMMER is officially on!

And with that announce-ment from our friends over at Pag-asa, there will surely be massive beelines to the country’s beaches, for some fun in the sun.

I’ve always loved going to the beach since I was a child. I prefer it over the usual summer destinations like the cool climes of Baguio or Tagaytay. Just walking along the shore, with the sand scrunching in between my toes, or splashing in shimmering, turquoise waters that not only relaxes the body but also renews the spirit.

This list is by no means complete, considering the many unnamed islands and coves that are still being kept a secret from us by locals in those areas. The other beaches are just quite far, and in challenging locations. (Like I’d really want to recommend a gorgeous white beach in Basilan, but well, I might get you into trouble with your mother. But okay, just don’t tell her…it’s on Malamawi Island! Shhh.)

So consider this list as a mixed bag of the popular and the lesser-known beaches that are still accessible (as long as you have the patience), and are sure to provide massive enjoyment to you and your family and friends.

1. White Beach, Boracay Island

You can't argue with success - the white sand beach of Boracay is still the best in the world, according to top international publications and travel blogs. 

Of course the title of top beach in the country still goes to Boracay Island’s White  Beach. It has fine, white-powdery sand the consistency of confectioner’s sugar, and while the waters close to the shore are now usually bedeviled by seaweed, further out it is all clear where it’s still possible to see tiny fishies darting about underwater.

This time of year, the island will be pretty crowded, and with the bars cranking up the volume to entertain the drinking and dancing masses of humanity, it’s no wonder Boracay has come to be known as “party central” among beach-goers.

Aside from white beach, the island has some of the best homegrown restaurants and cafés offering all sorts of cuisine from around the world. Resorts range from the one-note cottage fanned by the breezes or a ceiling fan, to luxurious five-star enclaves with infinity pools, spas and professionally-run restaurants.

Getting there: All major carriers fly to Kalibo, the capital of Aklan, or to Caticlan, the main gateway to Boracay. From the Caticlan jetty port, take a 15-minute pump boat ride to the Cagban jetty port where vans and tricycles can take you to your resort of choice. (If you have reservations with a resort, they usually provide pick-ups and transfers either from Kalibo or Caticlan, and back.)

2. Botolan, Zambales

The sand is a fine gray, which can really get hot as the sun creeps toward noon. But toward the afternoon, it cools down and makes for a great beach-volleyball court.

The waters are also quite clear but at certain times of the year, the waves can get pretty rough with a strong undertow. There are a number of resorts to choose from but the better part of the beach is at Barangay Binoclutan.

Aside from the beach, there is a turtle hatchery operated by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and waterfalls nearby.

Also, you can have a picnic at a white beach in Potipot Island, which you can reach from Candelaria. There are no accommodations there; just basic amenities like a toilet and shower, and stations for grilling. The waters are clean and calm, which turns from a subtle mint green to a striking blue further from the shore. (There’s an entrance fee of P100 for the island’s maintenance.)

Getting there: Drive north along the North Luzon Expressway, enter the SCTEx and make your way through the Subic Bay free port, exiting at the Zambales National Highway. There are road signs pointing to Botolan and resorts in the area. Going to Candelaria, take the Zambales-Pangasinan Road from Botolan—it’s just 45 minutes away.

3. Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte

Though its white sand is not as fine as Boracay's, Pagudpud in Ilocos Norte still has its own charm.

Pagudpud is the northernmost municipality of Ilocos Norte, and straddles two beaches—Blue Lagoon, which was once a secluded area at Maira-ira Point—and Saud Beach, the more public beach.

While Saud Beach is the more popular area because there are more resorts and restaurants, there are portions where the rocks underwater are quite huge and can hurt your feet. The sand is an off-white variety with crunches under your feet, but is a joy to lie on and sunbathe away.

At Blue Lagoon, the waters are crystal-clear with more sandy areas, although good resorts are hard to come by. An added attraction is a zipline.

While Pagudpud is often called “Boracay of the North,” just scale down your expectations regarding its resorts and restaurants. Think Station 3 and you’ll be just fine.

Getting there: You can travel the 11 hours by land from Metro Manila to Pagudpud (via North Luzon Expressway, Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway going to Tarlac and Pangasinan, keeping to the MacArthur Highway until La Union, and on to the National Highway and through Manila North Road, turning to the Pan-Philippine Highway to Pagudpud),  but it would be better to stop over in Laoag, Ilocos Norte, to rest for a night.

Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific also fly from Manila to Laoag (one-hour flight). From there, you can rent a van or take a 90-minute bus ride to Pagudpud, then take a tricycle to your resort.

4. Bamboo beach, Nasugbu, Batangas

This is simply the best beach in Nasugbu, and one of the most accessible from Metro Manila. The sand is a creamy tan, and the waters have remained stunningly clear through the years. Being a cove, it is free from the runoff and garbage from Manila Bay that usually plagues many Batangas beaches, for the most part of the year anyway. During the monsoon season, the surfers and skim boarders come and ride the waves.

The beach used to be accessible only via fishers’ bancas from the Munting Buhangin beach (which sadly is no longer as clean as it was in the 1980s from what I hear), and visitors could swim at Bamboo Beach for a day then leave before dusk set in. (There were no accommodations save for a few with privately owned cottages.)

The beach is now part of an exclusive private development called Kawayan Cove, so it’s best to find someone who owns a home there. Okay, I know that part was probably a hiccup, but I trust in the six-degrees-of-separation theory; I’m sure you will find a friend who has a boss with a relative who owns a villa there.

Getting there: Drive down the Slex, take the Santa Rosa Exit, head toward Tagaytay and keep going until you reach the Nasugbu town proper. There are signs that will point you to Kawayan Cove.

5. Mahabang Buhangin Beach, Calaguas, Camarines Norte

Privacy and seclusion is what you get when you go to Calaguas Islands. A grand production to get there, but truly worth the trip especially when you get to the white beach. (Photo by www.calaguasislands.com)

It is one of the spectacular white beaches that remains under the radar of the typical urbanite beach- goer. It may be a major production to reach this place, but once you arrive in Mahabang Buhangin, you will likely forget how long you sat on the bus for the trip.

As the name implies, this is a stretch of pristine white sand that seems to go on forever, with a splendid shimmering sea of blue water that remains transparent even in chest-deep water.

There are no resorts on the island, so it’s best to take basic camping equipment such as tents, food and water, flashlights and extra batteries or an oil lamp (yes, there’s no electricity!), and cooking/eating utensils. There are a few tiny nipa huts as well for rent and a public toilet.

Mahabang Buhangin is a beach for those who want privacy, quiet and just endless hours of serene relaxation. This is as rustic as you can get and just think, this was exactly how Boracay was before commercialization set in. (Entrance fee is P75.)

Getting there: If you want to go on a road trip, you can drive from Manila to Daet (via Slex, take the Calamba Exit and onward to San Pablo City, Laguna, taking the Pan-Philippine Highway through Gumaca, Quezon, then to Daet), which takes about six to seven hours. From there, go to Paracale for another two hours then a tricyle ride to Barangay Palanas, where you can ask local fisherfolk for a boat ride to Mahabang Buhangin (about P2,500 to P3,000 for three to eight persons).

Or take a public bus from Pasay or Cubao to Daet, Camarines Norte, then hop on a public van to Paracale (about 10 to 11 hours total).

You can also take a direct flight from Manila to Naga City, Camarines Sur (45 minutes via PAL or Cebu Pacific), then from the Central Business District Terminal, ride an air-conditioned bus for two hours to Daet. 

(To be continued)

(This piece was originally published in the March 25, 2013 issue of the BusinessMirror. For more updated information on Calaguas Islands, click this.)

Travel Bites: It’s not just Marcos country anymore

The Northwind Bangui Bay Project, or simply the Bangui windmills, faces the South China Sea and generates electricity for the province.

FOR the longest time, Ilocos Norte has been known as “Marcos Country,” or “Ilocoslovakia,” terms that emphasize the insularity of the province from the rest of the country in terms of progress and special benefits accorded it during the administration of strongman Ferdinand Marcos in the 1970s. 

While the Marcoses continue to rule the province, tourists now have a wider array of destinations to choose from as well as a myriad of activities to engage in. 

The visits to the Marcos Mausoleum and Museum (Barangay10-N Lacub, Batac City) where the late dictator's body is on display, and Malacañang of the North (Suba, Paoay), the official residence of the Marcos family in its heyday, are now mere historical footnotes and no longer the overwhelming reason for tourists to visit the province. 

Aside from the numerous destinations to explore, the delectable dishes and Abel Iloko woven products make for a compelling reason to visit the north. Eat bagnet (the name in Ilocos Sur for this crispy, deep-fried pork dish but which is actually known in Ilocos Norte as sitsaron or chicharon) with your favorite sawsawan (dipping sauce), and everything is all right in the world again. 

MUST-SEE’S 

Wind-blowing wonder. While it is a modern invention, the Northwind Bangui Bay Project, or simply the Bangui windmills, is quite an amazing view to behold. About 20 huge wind turbines painted white, tower on the shore of Bangui facing the South China Sea, as they try to harness the power of the wind into renewable energy for the province. Netizens will understand when I say a Facebook cover photo of the breathtaking site will definitely make it an interesting conversation piece among friends for days. 

Religious heritage. Completed in 1710, Paoay Church is on the list of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites for baroque churches in the Philippines. It is impressive in the way its builders tried to make it earthquake-proof as much as possible, fortifying its structure with bricks and coral. Its façade is washed out and no longer of the stunning red-brick color it may have originally been, and is dotted with floral renditions in stone almost Javanese-like in interpretation. Inside, the walls and retablo are simple with only the florid iron pulpit built in 1891 remaining as a reminder of the edifice’s former splendor. 

Bleached by the sun, the Kapupurawan Rock Formation in Burgos, Bangui.

White rock. Gazing up at the majestic Kapupurawan Rock Formation in the town of Burgos is almost a spiritual experience. It’s as if an unseen hand has sculpted the magnificent white limestone, making it stand out from the rest of the scenery. Hewn by the wind and the sea, and bleached by the sun, the white rock (kapupurawan meaning “whitest” in Ilocano) can be seen from a viewing deck or up close, being reachable via short horse ride. 

TO-DO’s 

Be a beach bum. The white-sand beach of Pagudpud is about an hour-and-a-half drive from Laoag City and now has numerous reasonably priced resorts catering to tourists. The trick, however, is to find the less rocky portions in the water, but to be sure, bring your surf shoes to protect your feet. 

What’s great about Pagudpud, specifically in the portion known as Saud beach (where the resorts are), is that it is quite easy to choose a deserted spot to put your things down, lay out your beach mat, and just go for a nap after a refreshing swim. The only noise is from the surf (careful…it is strong this time of the year), and the handful of people enjoying its crash on the shore. Anti-Boracay? If it’s peace and quiet you want, Pagudpud is definitely the beach to consider. 

Shop for weaves. The public market in Laoag City or Laoag City Commercial Complex on Abadilla Street is the best place to secure your Abel Iloko woven products. A number of stalls provide the itinerant purveyor of provincial souvenirs colorful pillow cases, traditional blankets in all mattress sizes, foot rugs, and the like. Go early in the morning, at about 8 to get the best buena mano bargains from the elderly grandmothers who still run a few of the stores. (I paid only P600 for a double-sized white blanket and four standard pillow cases–a real steal!) 

Of course, tourists can also buy other items from this market such as traditional food delicacies and souvenirs for pasalubong for your loved ones, as well as wet-market food items for one’s Ilocano cooking experiments. 

The white-sand beach of Pagudpud, is at the northernmost tip of Ilocos Norte. 

Gorge on sitsaron/chicharon. Whoever invented this delicacy is most certainly a food god and needs to be properly revered in a temple of culinary good taste. There is nothing more comforting than a huge slab of succulent pork belly with its luscious fat deep-fried to a crisp. I personally like eating it with garlic fried rice along with another immortal Ilocano dish, the vegetable-laden pinakbet (from the Ilocano word pinakebbet or shriveled, so-called because the vegetables are cooked until they are shriveled), to help the heart recover from the cholesterol shock. 

Other celebrated Ilocano fare are the fresh ar-arusip (seaweed mixed with ripe tomatoes and onions), Dinardaraan (the Ilocanos’ version of dinuguan or pork blood stew), poqui-poqui (grilled sweet eggplants with garlic, shallots and tomatoes), lomo-lomo (soup made of pork tenderloin and innards), among other delicacies. 

There are a few restaurants in Ilocos Norte that are noteworthy to try (Johnny Moon Café at the La Tabacalera Ilocano Lifestyle Center, along Llanes and General Luna streets in Laoag City for the bagnet sandwich; Herencia Center across Paoay Church for the pinakbet pizza), but in reality, visitors can only get authentic Ilocano fare in the house of a local. In my group’s case, former banker and city tourism officer Oesperanza Senen graciously plied us with wonderful Ilocano treats during our stay in Laoag City. (I am still trying to get her to divulge her source of suman ube, another lip-smacking local delight!)

Other interesting activities in Ilocos North include sand-boarding at the Paoay Sand Dunes, and playing the card tables at the Fort Ilocandia Resort and Casino. (Click http://tourismilocosnorte.com for other interesting activities and places to visit in the province.) 

WHERE TO STAY 

THE sprawling Fort Ilocandia (Barangay 37 Calayab, Laoag City) is still the only five-star accommodation in the province, which offers guests a grand view of the sea amid ultra-luxe accommodations. Its breakfast buffet is quite hefty and affords guests a lot of choices, and has a swimming pool and mini-zoo to keep the kids entertained. 

What’s conspicuously missing, however, are free Wi-Fi connection and a full-service spa, which is part and parcel of any decent five-star hotel these days. 

Completed in 1710, Paoay Church is on the list of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites for baroque churches in the Philippines. The structure is fortified with bricks and coral in an effort to make it earthquake-proof.

Hotel Tiffany (Gen. Segundo Avenue and M.H. del Pilar Street/) is for the budget-conscious traveler and is centrally located in the city proper. It has clean, spacious rooms and has free Wi-fi access (just make sure you tell the hotel reception to book your room near the router). 

Another option is to homestay. There are a few furnished houses for rent in Laoag City (about P1,000 a night) which offer anywhere from generous two to three rooms and bathrooms, with Wi-Fi access to the Internet. Just google. 

For more recommendations on accommodations in Ilocos Norte, go to http://tourismilocosnortehotels.com. 

(My column, Travel Bites is published every Monday in the front page of the BusinessMirror. This feature on Ilocos Norte was published on Nov. 5, 2012. Copyright of photos owned by the author.)